St Andrews and Durham

St Andrews Golf Club

The above is for all my golfing friends. I thought fondly of you today as we gazed upon the links. If it had been a Sunday, we would be free to walk the links. The Old Club was open only to members which squelched our plans to have lunch there. Instead, we went to the University Museum and St. Mary's College chapel before hitting the road for Durham.
The road to Durham hugs the coast of the North Sea for much of the trip. The road is high above the sea and allows for views of distant coastlines. You can also see barley fields and grazing sheep directly below the road.
Our hotel is a riot. If I were going to design a brothel, it would look exactly like The Gadds Townhouse. It was hard to find the reception desk in the purple light cast by the multifaceted chandelier. But we did find it just beyond the purple round couch. Every inch of the place is covered in velvet, tassels, damask, chandeliers. The best? Our room has a glass shower that partitions the bed from the rest of the bath. You must see it to understand it.

The Gadds Townhouse, Our Room

Yes, that is a velvet curtain hanging across the shower. But it was a good location to the Cathedral where we walked in time for even song. We will return tomorrow for a more extensive look.
More photos at Flickr

Through the Grampians

After breakfast at Cordhu House we said good bye to Norman, who gave us directions for St Andrews saying, "it's a scenic drive." The drive was through the Grampian Mountains, and 'twas a glorious ride indeed. The mountains are mostly devoid of trees and covered with heather. There are large areas cleared of heather and we wondered why. That is the patchwork appearance seen in the photos. At one point we came upon about a dozen men on the mountain side snapping and flapping small flags. Of course we panicked thinking it was some sort of terrorist warning system or a kidnapping ring trying to divert our attention. A few miles on we stopped at a roadside cafe where I chatted it up with some geriatric bikers. They (and the old Scots woman at the next table) gave me the low down on all things Grampian. Seems the heather is burned in controlled areas each year. The grouse go into the old heather to nest. When the young are ready to feed the burned areas have sprouted new grow for them. The flag wavers were chasing the grouse from the old heather for shooting.
We're on the North Sea now at St Andrews, where the 3rd oldest English speaking university is located. It is also the home of golf. The sport has been played here since the 1400s. We can see the St Andrew Links from our hotel room. We walked the 3 main streets down to the Cathedral and back up to the Castle. I don't think St Andrews is as architecturally significant as Oxford, but it seems to have a great character all it's own. More photos at Flickr

Loch Ness

The fields of barley and the rolled hay here are beautiful and surround our guest house. I keep singing Sting's "Fields of Gold". We walked by this beautiful field pictured above on our way to the Cordhu Distillery this morning. Our tour guide was good. She told some of the same folk stories as the guide at Dalwhinnie, but was much clearer about the distilling process. I learned that it is not whiskey until it has been in the barrel for 3 years. Prior to that it is simply spirits. Both guides said that a bit of water releases the favors of the whiskey. We've been testing that theory nightly.
We also walked down the hill from the tiny village to the Knockando Woolmill, has been manufacturing continuously since 1784. I was hoping to see the weaving and dying, but there were no tours today. There were dozens of pheasants scurrying around the mill. It's hunting season for them.
In the afternoon we drove west to see the Loch Ness. The drive took us through Inverness, which was not remarkable other than the fact that we are listening to MacBeth, a Novel while we drive. Here, also are miles of fields with hundreds of hay roles scattered about.  It is very surreal. The Loch is a beautiful sparkling blue set among blue green mountains. We chose the Urqhuart Castle from which to view it. Though extensively ruined, it is still a splendid sight set high up on a headland. It was in its day one of the largest strongholds of medieval Scotland. It is also near this castle that the majority of Nessie sightings occur.
For dinner we returned to the Highlander Pub for steak and ale pie. It's a great little neighborhood pub with friendly and jolly Scots. More photos at Flickr.

Among the Fields of Barley

Dalwinnie Distillary

We drove north today into the Highlands. It is just the most beautiful countryside you can imagine. We're listening to MacBeth, A Novel, and it is so fitting. At one point one of the characters remarks, "they came through the Grampians" just as we were driving through them. Very moving. We stopped at The Dalwhinnie distillery for a tour and a taste. It was both educational and tasty. It took a while to find our B&B, The Cardu Country House. It's deep in the Spey Side in a tiny little village. We drove through deep woods and steep hills thinking "have we made a mistake?"  Not to worry. It is beautiful, and a nearby town has 2 nice pubs and an art gallery. Although it seems desolate, it is in fact quite busy with hikers, golfers, and whiskey seekers. There are in Spey Side alone 12 distilleries. Also here is the Knockando Woolmill, one of the oldest surviving mills. It has manufactured continuously since 1784.
Our host is Norman. We haven't met his,wife. But we have met the 2 terriers and the black lab.
More photos at Flickr.

Edinburgh Galleries

View of the Forth of Firth

We spent the better part of the day in the National gallery and the History Museum. The Gallery had a showing of Symbolist painters that focused on landscape, from Van Gogh to Kandinsky. I noticed that groups did not hover around the Van Gogh's, Monet's (no, I didn't realize he was a Symbolist either) or Gauguin's like they do in the States. Must just be a phenomenon there. It was nice to see works and artists unfamiliar to me. The galleries were large and bright, too. A second show was the watercolor works of Giovanni Battista Lusieri (1754–1821). Lusieri was one of very few Italian artists to use watercolor as a primary medium. I was astounded at the meticulous detail, precision and control of the medium in the works. They were primarily of Naples, Rome, Sicily, and Greek ruins. He was the draftsman for Sir John Elgin and many of his works were lost at sea when Elgin returned to England. Quite a few of the works were unfinished and one could see the process Lusieri employed. Every leaf, rock, blade of grass was first drawn in with pencil then ink.
The permanent collection was also extensive. What remains in my eye was Sargeant's Lady Agnew of Lochnaw. Stunning. Coming in close behind we're Titian's Venus Rising from the Sea, a Raffael Madonna, Canova's Three Graces.
We walked up the hill to Old Town hunting the History Museum. along the way we stopped for lunch at Porto and Fi. We wanted to see some of the artifacts from Scotland's birth. Most notable were some of the Lewis Chess Set, a 20' pike, and some renaissance wood panels.
We had dinner tonight at The Larder Bistro. Wayne had venison and I trout as well as starters and dessert....way too much. It was fun. We were snug in a back room with gay Scots. They really are a happy, joking lot.
No pictures today.

Edinburgh Castle

Walk, walk, walk, walk, walk, walk, walk.  Edinburgh Castle is directly across from our hotel room. It is quite a beautiful site, rising abruptly from the Princes park, perched high above the city. The 1/4 mile walk was a gradual grade and easy although fierce with wind. The Castle was not often used by royalty unless they were seeking refuge from invaders. The most noted royalty were Mary Queen of Scots, her son James VI of Scotland and I of England, Charles I. The most interesting thing was the murder of Mary's secretary David Rizzio. While dining with the Queen, he was ripped from the room and stabbed 56 times by stewards of the Queen's husband, Lord Darnley. Darnley was latered murdered. Hmmmm.  Wonder who arranged that.  The most beautiful part of the grounds was the ruined Abbey.
We walked down the hill on the Royal Mile. Excuse me, but I would rename this the Commercial 3 Mile. A the bottom of the hill was Hollyrood Palace, official Scottish home of QE II. A quaint little abode with the usual waiting rooms prior to the grand throne room.
The best part of the day was our decision to end the day at The Oxford Bar, the haunt of John Rebus. Well, not really end. We also had dinner at a very nice place, The Wildfire. A small but excellent establishment.More photos at Flickr.

Edinburgh

Our gps took us on the scenic route to Edinburgh. It was a bit harry at times driving on roads built for horse and wagon and lined with stone walls. The walls are amazing here. There are miles and miles of them meandering up and down mountains, segmenting grazing fields, lining roads. They all stand straight and high. Robert Frost would need to rethink his ideas on walls. The mountains are almost completely devoid of trees, but green with grass, ferns and heather. Sheep are everywhere. Once in Scotland the land flattened quickly for us and Edinburg snuck up without warning. The gps took us to a glorious hotel, The Balmoral. The doorman, dressed in a kilt, took our luggage, arranged to valet the car, escorted us to reception and chatted until the clerk called us forward. While the clerk was looking up our room, I mentioned that we were Hilton members. She said, "that explains why I can't find your reservation. The Hilton is down the road." So....back out to the road in a rush before the car is taken, we retrieved the luggage and listened with embarrassment while the very nice doorman in the kilt got us a map and gave us directions. As we left he said with a note of pity, "the Hilton isn't the Balmoral." he was right about that. It is however very nice. And we have a perfect view of the Edinburgh Castle. After check in, we walked down the main street and had lunch, took a look at the Sir Walter Scott monument and returned via the park. It is a beautiful city.More photos at Flickr.

Wordsworth

We started out today to see Beatrix Potter's home, but found that we needed to take a ferry across Lake Windermere to reach it. That would be okay except that my inquires of those locals in the car line told me the ferry only took 6 cars at a time; we were number 21 with no ferry in sight after a 10 minute wait. Instead, we opted to go to our second agenda item, Dove Cottage, home of William Wordsworth. Wordsworth lived in the cottage in Grasmere for 8 years. His sister, wife, sister-in-law, 3 children, S. T. Coleridge and another minor writer all lived in the 5 room cottage at one time. Wordsworth had seen the area when he was 14 and declared it paradise. It had always been his desire to return. It was here that he purportedly wrote his best poems. There was a very nice museum attached with many original writings and paintings of his contemporaries.
From Grasmere we drove to Keswick. It was a very hairy but stunning drive on a 6'6" road along the edge of the lake. At times the mountainside was to the other side of us; covered with huge ferns and cedars, it reminded me of northern California. The lushness and the green were tangible. Keswick was a bit more charming that Windermere. But still no really nice galleries or antique shops. We had a pub lunch and returned to Cragwood for some R&R.More photos at Flickr.

The Lake District

We were up bright and early at 6:30. The fire alarm roused us, and as I'm trying to shut off the phone alarm, then the iPad alarm, I come to realize I better get dressed. Out in the hall I met Paul, also obviously hastily attired assuring me nothing is on fire. I left him to sort out the problem and returned for an additional 10 winks of sleep.
We breakfasted alone. There is a nice selection of art for sale in all the rooms. Carl Melegari's work caught our attention. Seems he was a miner, which you can tell feeds his work. Take a look.
The drive to the Lake District is filled with views of the dales seemingly covered by heather. At least the color appeared to be purple heather. We are staying at The Cragwood House Hotel. From the back lawn there are 2 views of Lake Windemere. The building is stone with multiple gables and leaded windows.
After checking in we drove to the towns of Windemere and Bowness. The we're filled with tourists and had a honky tonk look and feel. But we took a 45 minute cruise on the Lake. It's beauty out shown any of the tastiness of the towns. Back at our hotel, we had a wonderful dinner and will dine here again tomorrow. More photos at Flickr.

Yorkshire Arms

The York Arms

Once we packed and cleared out of Oxford, we spent the better part of the day driving to Ramsgill in Nedderdale, Harrogate, North Yorkshire. Try finding that on the GPS. Our destination was the York Arms, a Michelin starred restaurant and inn. We discovered the Arms while watching The Trip, a British comedy film about restaurants in the north of England, and put it on our agenda. The last miles of the trip were along narrow, stone-walled roads big enough for one Peugeot (our car) or 2 smart cars. Needless to say there was a lot of nail biting and breath holding.  But we did arrive unscathed.   The Inn is nestled among fields of grazing sheep, along side a bubbling brook, down from a reservoir, adjacent to a vine covered English cottage; you get my drift? We walked in past tables filled with chattering, laughing people having tea in the sunny front courtyard. The clerk showed us to a lovely room. After walking around the area a bit, we returned to the room. Wayne read, and I went out to draw the lovely vine covered English cottage. Drinks were announced for 6:30, dinner at 7:00. At cocktail hour it was so quiet we asked about the other guests. Seems we were the only guests in the inn. This made for a jolly evening filled with undivided attention from all. After a dinner of grouse, we retired to the lounge for espresso and a visitation from Chef Francis Atkins. She explained the grouse we had was locally hunted, feeding off heather, which gave it the flavor. We talked about Scotland, where she last worked, and Scotch whiskey. We got good advice about touring there. This is a day and meal that we will long remember.More photos at Flickr.

High Tea

Today was our last day in Oxford. I absolutely love the civility and order here. People really do queue up for everything. Among throngs of shoppers, They queue up at the bus stops a good 10 minutes prior to the bus' arrival. AND, then they stay in that line until all are orderly boarded. I want to live here. We did not encounter one surly, rude or curt person whether a clerk, a waitress, a porter, etc. (the intruder doesn't count). Even on the highways and byways, the drivers are courteous and considerate. I want to live here.
We spent most of the day walking around the city. We did get into University College to see the Shelly Monument. It's gated off now to prevent the students from defacing poor Shelly. Seems they like to paint his penis. And once they filled the alcove with water and goldfish. Poor fish!
We climbed to the top of the Carfax for another rooftop view of the spires. There was a nice woman who traded camera shots with us. After, we went to the Randolph Hotel for high tea. The Randolph is one of those famous Morse spots. However, it stands on its own as a very nice establishment, built in the Victorian Gothic style. After tea we revisited Magdalen College and then walked to University Park. There are very large specimen trees that we didn't recognized. We walked all the way to the Cherwell river where a beautiful scene of punters captured us. I want to live here. More photos at Flickr.

Will and Anne

Even though very little is known about Anne Hathaway outside of a few legal documents, she has been much maligned over the centuries as a shrew and a cradle snatcher. Probably, none of these characterizations are true. While she was 26 and pregnant, Shakespeare was 18 and poor and hardly a catch. We visited the house, now much enlarged, where Anne was born. The gardens were fabulous. There is a flower here, the anemone, that I'm coveting for our garden. The pink blooms, dogwood in likeness, sit on the ends of 3' stems. We strolled though a wooded path reading postings from Midsummer Night's Dream before leaving for Shakespeare's birthplace.
Shakespeare and Anne lived in the birthplace house. The Second Best Bed is here. The gardens here are lovely, too. We were amazed to be walking in the same halls as Shakespeare walked, breathed, sneezed, coughed, laughed and ......
More photos at Flickr.

Windsor, The Trout, and The Intruder

We went to the Queen's favorite week-end digs today, Windsor Castle. The castle had its beginnings with William the Conqueror who wanted to protect the Norman dominance on the outskirts of London and this strategic portion of the Thames. Thereafter it has mostly been a residence, in fact, the longest inhabitated castle in Europe.  It is an amazing piece of architecture, but not particularly interesting in terms of historically significant events...no blood and guts. The art, however, was nice to see: Rembrandt's, Van Dyke's. We came back early to Oxford for dinner at the Trout Inn, a must on our Morse was here list. It is in Lower Wolvercote north of Oxford, directly on the River Thames. Wolvercote is also where Wayne's sons attended school when he was a student at Oxford.
Oh,yes, the intruder. So, around 1 am I awoke to a lot of loud banging. Wayne said, "its just someone on the street." A couple of minutes later I awoke again and said, "someone is in the house". Big, brave, manly Wayne went downstairs, came backup stairs and said, "someone is in the house." My reaction: "What? Lock the bedroom door. No. Don't go down there. Call the police." His response, "Where are my pants?"  We both go downstairs like idiots. Passed out in the living room was a very drunk and vomiting male teenager. Wayne and I both are yelling, "Who the %.*#+~! are you? Get the **}>#>~£ out of here.". Nothing budged the retching retch. I try dialing the police with no success. Wayne is screaming in the guy's ear. I grab a tennis racket (yeah, good weapon) to hit him over the head. Then, suddenly he gets up, looks at us like we have 3 heads, and stumbles out the door without a word. Tonight we will double check the locks and make sure we have Inspector Lewis on speed dial.
See more of Windsor on Flickr. Sorry, no pics of  The Intruder.

Oxford Center, the Unfulfilled Quest

It was such a rainy day that we postponed plans to visit Anne Hathaway's home. Instead, we took the bus into the Center to look for 2 treasures, The Light of the World by William Holman Hunt at Keble College and the Shelly Memorial at University College. Alas, we were thwarted on all counts. The Keble College Chapel was under renovations and closed. University College was closed to all visitors. Not to be dissuaded we journeyed on to the Sheldonian. What? Closed for renovations?!?! Oh, you say we can climb to the cupola instead. Okay, why not. Why not indeed. First, the roof was designed by Christopher Wren, and his handiwork can be seen as one climbs into the cupola. Wow. Secondly, the best view one could hope for of the Oxford architecture is here. After lots of ogling and snapping of pics, we descended and headed for Wayne's college, Exeter. It's a small but beautiful college. We sat in the chapel for a bit and went to the door leading to Wayne's tutor, John Wilson. Later, we did some regular living, shopping for socks, having a new watch battery installed and buying some pasties for dinner at home. As we headed for the bus, torrential rains fell as the sun broke through. At the last moment the rainbow appeared.  Pics of our day.

Stonehenge and Salisbury Cathedral

I've often remarked to people who have never visited the Grand Canyon that photographs simply cannot capture the essence of the place. The vastness, the depth, the colors and the atmosphere must be experienced personally to grasp the spirit of the place. If you've been to the Grand Canyon, then you will understand what I mean when I say the same applies to Stonehenge. While the two places don't compare physically, the experience is similar. The scale of the stones seen here is under estimated. And the mystery of the who, why, and how only add to the amazement. When Wayne was here 35 years ago, his sons could climb on the stones. Today the area is cordoned off. We circumvented the site with audio guides that gave some insight into the henge origins. I sat and drew for a while. How lucky.
Salisbury is only a short drive from Stonehenge. The spire of the Cathedral rises dramatically over the horizon as one approaches. It is one of the few Cathedrals constructed in a short time and on a large close. As a result the building is one of the purest of English Gothic architecture. John Constable painted the Cathedral many times. Having seen these paintings at The Frick, The NY Met, etc. I've wanted to see the a cathedral in the same light as Constable. A bonus was seeing one of only 4 existing Magna Carta copies in the chapter house.
More photos at Flickr.

Bath and Wells

Wells Cathedral

We had a long drive through on and off rain showers to Bath to see the Roman ruins. Bath is a much larger city than I knew. There is a large pedestrian, upscale mall surrounding the Abbey and the Baths. The sun broke out and we ate lunch outside at one of the restaurants across from the Baths. It is just as fascinating to me that the Baths could be uncovered and reconstructed as it is that they ever were built to begin with. The Abbey has a unique exterior, angels climbing up a ladder on either side of the main entrance are book ended by a high relief carving of the Jesse Tree.
Wells was another 1/2 hour from Bath through narrow roads that were canopied by large trees. The Cathedral sits to one side of the town center and adjacent to the Bishop's palace. The cathedral itself, like all we've seen, is awe inspiring. Please see the photos for the best understanding.Flickr

Stratford -Upon-Avon

Wayne dining with Shakespeare at The Garrick Pub

If music be the food of love, then play on.We spent the afternoon with Viola, Olivia, Malvolio, et al at the Royal Shakespeare Co. It was a bright and sunny, crisp day suitable for a walk along the Avon. The streets were packed, but being mostly Brits they nicely queued up and gave way to the pushy Americans. So, we had no problems making our way to Shakespeare's birthplace and his grave in Holy Trinity Church as well as having lunch before the play. It was great fun watching a Shakespeare performance in Stratford. We will return later in the week to tour the birthplace home and Anne Hathaway's home.

Blenheim Palace

Blenheim Palace is the Churchill family estate. Winston Churchill was born here.  Built in the English Baroque style, it has been home to the Churchill family for over 300 years. Our guide was very good. She concentrated on the history of the family telling it through the paintings, furniture and tapestries in the rooms. Most notable sights were the furnishings that came from Versailles, the Singer Sargent painting of the 9th Duke and his wife Consuelo Vanderbilt, the C. Duran painting of Consuelo that hung nearby, and the 10 Flemish Victory Tapestries of John Churchill.  The gardens were very formal, very green and beautifully set against the River Glynne.


We returned to Oxford and the Ashmolean Museum in mid afternoon.  There is a beautiful Uccello painting, The Hunt in the Forest, here.  We later went in Blackwells Book Store (another Morse haunt) to pick up an Oxford tour book. We then returned to Summertown and had dinner at The Spice Lounge, a very good Indian restaurant.  
See more photos at Flickr

Inspector Morse, The Ashmolean, and Evensong

We have finally gotten our body clocks on UK time. After a late breakfast we headed for Oxford Center to check on our Morse tour. On our way out the door we met our neighbor, Harold. He was with Anna, his and our house keeper. She was kind enough to help us with the oven. Alas, it would not work for her either.
From the information center in Oxford, we walked down Broad St and over to Christ Church College, the most beautiful college I've yet seen. The gardens were lush and so well tended. We visited the Cathedral where there are several Burn-Jones windows. Funny story. One of the Burn -Jones windows was being cleaned and had plain glass in place of it. When the docent relayed the cleaning information to a visitor, she exclaimed, "Oh, no. You've cleaned it completely off!" You may see this
over-cleaning on Flickr.
Next on the agenda, Morse. We are Inspector Morse, Lewis and Endeavor fans. As such, Wayne is always pointing out Oxford buildings during the shows. This tour gave us the opportunity to see those spots in true time.
When at Christ Church we saw a posting for Evensong and decided to attend. After the Morse tour we had enough time to visit The Ashmolean. We went immediately the the Pre-Raphaelite Gallery. Wayne remembers when he first saw these paintings 35 years prior and fell in love with them. The collection is small and of early works.
We ended our day in Oxford back at Christ Church Cathedral for Evensong. The choir was young adolescents. The sound was quite lovely and soothing after such a long day on our feet. Back home we cooked some pasta and settled in for a little tv and reading.
To see more photos of today visit Flickr.

The Cotswolds

Wayne with his Scotch egg in Stow

Today we drove out to the Cotswolds, a very picturesque English countryside. The area is populated with small towns and villages built othat one. In the Middle Ages the wool trade made the Cotswolds prosperous. Some of this money was put into the building of churches so the area has a number of large Cotswold stone "wool churches". the first village we came to, Stow-on-Wold was having an art show in its church. We bought a small painting of the local landscape. Here we also had lunch. I had The Best Damn Fish and Chips; Wayne had a warm Scotch egg. As we drove through the countryside to the next village of Bourton-on-Water, we saw many sheep and fields upon fields of hay or wheat. Bourton-on-Water looks like it belongs in the Shire...too charming for words. A very shallow yet wide river runs through the center of the town. There were children everywhere wading and playing. I stuck my finger in for a test run and immediately withdrew it before icicles formed.
See more photos of the Cotswolds at Flickr

The Botanical Gardens, Magdalen College, The Bodleian

Wayne at the King's Arms, Oxford

Yep, we did all those things. We started the day searching Corn Market St for some electrical adapters. The street is pedestrian and has an enclosed market nearby where these poor pigs were begging for attention. From there we walked to the botanical Gardens. They were mostly interesting for the perennials and wild flowers. Across the street from the Gardens is Magdalen College. Inside is a most beautiful chapel. Among the many notable alumni are Oscar Wilde, CS Lewis, Cardinal Wolsey. Up the hill and on our way home was The Bodleian, the library for the Colleges.More photos at Flickr

Boston and Beyond

We began by being tourists on our home turf. We spent the day walking around Plymouth Harbor, visiting the Rock, looking at The Mayflower. Remembered the last time we were here with Carolyn and Ralf. Met Jeff at the house; he drove us to the bus. Arrived at Logan 5 hours early. We are EXCELLENT travelers. Really, we just rather sit there and read than kill time elsewhere. Met an interesting guy in the restaurant. He was from Cambridge, UK but living in Maine. The flight was smooth, quick and uneventful. Love British Air. Arrived Heathrow 9:00am, got the car, panicked, drove any way. Arrived at the house around noon. Left the house around 12:01pm. Strolled to Summer Town and caught the bus to Oxford Center where we walked down High St past the Sheldonian. Wayne was grinning ear to ear. Walked back to a pub, The Eagle and Child where we had the worst beer you can imagine. So close to Belgium, yet so far. There was a trivial pursuit game going on. After finishing the awful beer and stuffing myself on a burger, we caught the bus back to the house.
More photos at flickr.

The Night Before

We spent he night before our departure for the UK in Plymouth because our home exchangers had arrived and were in our house. There was the most beautiful sunset occurring as we approached the hotel. I think it is a very good omen. Tomorrow we fly to London.

Great Barrington and Tanglewood

Neighboring Picnicers at Tanglewood

It was a beautiful day in the neighborhood.  We spent it in Great Barrington, which has a different feel than the other surrounding towns.  There are far more young people, more of a hip, funky atmosphere.  We ate lunch, roamed the streets window shopping and gallery browsing.  Tonight we returned to Tanglewood for an all Wagner program.  It was thoroughly transcending.  More pictures at flickr.

Norman Rockwell and William Shakespeare

Rockwell Museum

Norman Rockwell moved to Stockbridge, MA in 1953 so that his wife could be treated at the Austen Riggs psychiatric hospital.  (side note. James Taylor was also treated there and refers to his time at Austin Riggs in the song, Fire and Rain).  Stockbridge remained Rockwell's home until his death.  He helped established a custodianship which became the Norman Rockwell Museum.  The museum is the authority on Rockwell and holds over 700 pieces of his.  We went primarily to see the current show, Howard Pyle.  Pyle was an illustrator and children's book author during the fin de siecle.  Rockwell studied and admired his works as a student.  Pyle hardly had his own style.  He would mimic styles he felt best illustrated the texts he was illustrating.  To my delight, the show included Hokusai's The Great Wave of Kanagawa.  Previously, I've seen this print only in reproduction.  There is always something new to discover in the Berkshires.
Tonight we saw The Tempest at Shakespeare and Co.  It's our only play this trip.  The production was not great.  Olympia Dukakis played Prospero and she was extremely weak.  Her voice is not suited to Shakespearean dialogue.  Physically, she didn't control the character, either.  To our delight Merritt Janson played Miranda.  We saw her last year as Rosalind in As You Like It.  It was the best portrayal of Rosalind we've ever seen.  She was equally good as Miranda.  Other principals were also noteworthy.  Kristin Wold as Ariel was charming and captivating.  More photos at flickr.

Hancock Shaker Village

Hancock Shaker Village

The United Society of Believers in Christ's Second Appearing....USBCSA....nope, no hope of an acronym there!  The Shakers are a religious sect who live communally and are amazing at invention, music, egalitarianism. The only remaining members live in a Maine commune. Since we had seen Borrowed Light at Jacob's Pillow on Sunday, we wanted to visit the Shaker Village in Hancock, MA.  It is a beautiful setting in which most of the buildings still stand in pristine condition.  The Shakers have not lived in the village since the 1960's.  We heard nice talks in the round barn and the dormitory about the structures and life in general.  The dormitory dining room had 2 interior windows, borrowed light.  

This evening we attended a Brahms Piano concert at Ozawa Hall performed by Gerhard Oppits who, over 4 evenings, is playing the complete works for piano without one piece of sheet music.  Very impressive.  We sat on the lawn this evening among the crowd that spilled out of the hall like fruit from a cornucopia.  It was beautiful to watch the interior of the hall warm as the sky cooled to evening then night.  We re-visited our discussion about LeWitt's art.  I asked why Wayne could consider the Brahms' piece art and not the LeWitt wall paintings.  More photos at flickr.

Mass MoCA

Sol LeWitt Wall Painting

Mass MoCA in No. Adams, MA is one of the largest centers for contemporary visual and performing arts in the US. It is located in a converted factory building, which offers huge display spaces. We went primarily to see the "Oh, Canada" and "Invisible Cities" shows. Fortunately, a tour of all the galleries was beginning as we arrived. It was nice to get an over view and introductions to pieces in each gallery.  We had not been to the museum since its initial opening and were pleased and surprised at the improved holdings and curatorship. The most interesting was the Sol Lewitt retrospective. Please visit this site to understand the magnitude and importance of this show. 65 artists and students spent 6 months installing the work which will be on display for 25 years. Lewitt had gifted his work to Yale University when he was dying from cancer. Yale, realizing their limited space, sought out Mass MoCA and LeWitt agreed. He visited and collaborated on the placement and configuration of the spaces prior to his death.

Sol LeWitt Wall Paintings

Of the two other shows, I liked The Mountain by Graeme Patterson in the Oh, Canada show.  My best description is art within art within art.  Patterson describes it as the first of four installations that focus on his personal experience with male bonding.  Coming in a close second was the entire Invisible Cities show, particularly Melting Pot by Miha Strukelj.  The concept is inspired by Italo Calvino's novel of the same name in which imaginary conversations take place between Marco Polo and Kubla Khan.  Polo describes his voyages and the cities to Khan.

Invisible Cities

I was so happy to have finally seen some contemporary art that can be visually exciting, provoking, evoking and accessible without extensive reading and probing to understand the artists' intents.  More photos at flickr.

The Clark

The Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute is in Williamstown, which is also home to Williams College.  This makes for a great day visit.  The very small town center hosts a wonderful gallery, The Harrison and an adequate little lunch spot, Thai Garden.  The Harrison's main show was John MacDonald's paintings and Paul Caponigro's photographs. MacDonald's work, pictured above, was of landscapes in and around Williamstown.  The quality of the paints is almost encaustic in appearance.  I couldn't decide if that was a mixing choice or a medium effect until reading the artist's statement.  He's a plein air painter interested in light and texture.  

The Clark is a very interesting place.  It  houses the private collection of the Clarks, (he, grandson of Singer Sewing Machine founder) and has a mission dedicated to research, and extending and advancing the public understanding of art.  This trip was a bit disappointing because the original building is under renovation and the current show is recent archaeological discoveries of northern China.  I admit this lack of interest is due to my complete ignorance of Chinese art, religion, culture, etc, etc.  I did enjoy a couple of the sculptures. Zhenmushou (Tomb Guardian Beasts) from the Tang dynasty.  The expressions and the melding of beasts/humans was captivating.  And the Warrior Guardian from the Qi dynasty because of his posturing amused me greatly.   ZhenmushouWarrior Guardian


John and Kathy returned for a sleep over on their way back to PA following their trip to P'town.  We ate at Chez Nous.  It was enjoyed by all.  More photos at flickr.

Ozawa Hall

We spent most of the day reading and napping.  Sometime in the early afternoon we went to Lee for lunch and then to the new Big Y for water, milk and bananas.  Not very blog worthy.  But tonight we attended a concert at Ozawa Hall.  The Tanglewood Music Center Orchestra played Brahms' Tragic Overture, Schubert's Symphony in B minor, and Strauss' Also Sprach Zarathustra.  Each piece used a different conductor.  They were all big symphonies with large sound which we thoroughly enjoyed.  It is fun to see the student musicians revel in the opportunity to play and be heard. The picture is taken from the top of the hill. Attendees have the choice of sitting outside or inside.  The angle disguises the orchestra seats but highlights the drama of the building and the stage.  More photos at flickr.

Jacob's Pillow 80

We had an early performance time today, 2pm at Jacob's Pillow, to see Tero Saarinen's Borrowed Light. Saarinen is Finnish who began his career with the Finnish Ballet. The piece is inspired by the Shakers and uses original Shaker music. However, the work is not about Shakerism but rather community and devotion. There are 8 dancers and 8 singers from the Boston Camerata. The dancers and singers share the stage; their costumes are black and the light is stark, cast at an extreme angel from stage left. The title comes from the Shaker practice of adding interior windows to a building in order to extend daylight hours. There were many aspects I liked. The dancers make exaggerated zombie like movements with a lot of stomping. All of us would have preferred more traditional dance. But I did appreciated Saarinen's ability to extract and project a visceral feeling of human struggle both emotionally and physically within a community or space. Here is a brief clip of Borrowed Light from the company's website. I don't believe it is the Camerata performing the music here, though.
Tonight we ate at Bistro Zinc. It was amusing that at our 8pm reservation the menu was practically empty of all selections. All these old folks around here eat early and wiped out the kitchen.

Tanglewood 75

It was a sun scorching day. We had worried that the predicted evening showers would affect our Tanglewood concert. But it was beautiful all day and night. First thing I realized at around 5am was that I left all the tickets at home. Thus, we began the day by stopping at the Tanglewood box office for replacement tickets. We next stopped in Lenox for a light lunch at Patisserie. They have the most mouth-watering, beautiful desserts. I highly recommend it. We ate on the patio and then went across the street to visit The Wit Gallery and discuss works and possible options with the clerk. We didn't have time for extensive visits to other venues, but we did take abbreviated tours. First, we stopped at Arrowhead, Herman Melville's home in Pittsfield. There was a very funny sculpture in the field of Moby pursued by Ahab.

We also stopped at Ventfort Hall, the filming sight for Cider House Rules.

It was now late enough that we headed to Tanglewood and took our place in the short line for the 5:30 opening of the grounds. Inside we found a beautiful spot under a huge maple tree to spread out and relax. The performance this evening was in celebration of Tanglewood's 75th anniversary. The pieces were all relatively short with various conductors attending. I'll list the highlights for my own memory, but to also recognize the performers. 1. Keith Lockhart conducted Copland's Fanfare for the Common Man and 3 dance episodes from On the Town by Bernstein. 2.James Taylor sang with John Williams conducting selections from the Great American Songbook. 3. Stefan Asbury conducting Haydn's Piano Concerto in D. 4. Andris Nelsons conducting Anne-Sophie Mutter playing Sarasate's Carmen Fantasy and Yo-Yo Ma playing Tchaikovsky's Andante Cantabile. 5. Andris Nelsons conducting Ravel's LaValse 6. David Zinman conducting Beethoven's Fantasia with the Tanglewood Festival Chorus, John Oliver conducting Our groups' favorites were Mutter's performance and the Beethoven. The Chorus gave me chills. Everything was topped off with a fabulous fireworks show.

Becket Bound

We are back in the very lovely Berkshires of Massachusetts. We come every year to enjoy Tanglewood, Shakespeare & Co., Jacob's Pillow, The Clark and more, more, more. Our friends John and Kathy met us. They actually arrive ahead of us because we got a late start and then hit very heavy slow traffic. We had stopped at Whole Foods along the way and picked up steaks and every cheese, cracker, hors d'oeuvres one could desire. After conversation over the hors d'oeuvres in which we solved most of the nations political and social ills, we ate, drank and laughed into the wee morning hours. Great to be back here where we are staying for the second year in Becket at the home we exchange with Kate and Greg. Hope they have as much fun in Wareham.

Reason Rally

It rained pretty heavily on and off today. We walked down to the Reason Rally to check things out. There was a fairly large crowd despite the rain. After hanging around for a few speeches, we went to the National Gallery to escape the downpour. There we saw a Picasso exhibit of some 55 works. The exhibition presented the development of Picasso's drawings over a 30-year period. There were his earliest drawings on loan from the Barcelona Picasso Gallery which we remember seeing years ago when we were in Barcelona. Another reminder from our travels were two large-scale group portraits from the Dutch Golden Age, on long-term loan from the Rijksmuseum and the Amsterdam Museum. We ate lunch in the Gallery and bought an umbrella for the duration of the day. Back at the Reason Rally we heard Dawkins speak, but the speech was uninspiring. Far better was Greta Christina. She laid it all out about how religious enthusiasts work to destroy the freedom of others.
Tonight we picked up Adam and Maura for dinner in their neighborhood at an Indian restaurant and a Dvorak concert, Stabat Mater, at the Kennedy Center. The concert was excellent. The choir blew us away.
For more DC pictures please visit my flickr page.

Cherry Blossoms

Today was beautiful, warm, and sunny; perfect for a walk along the Tidal Basin through the cherry trees. Prior to the Tidal Basin we walked to the Hirshhorn Gallery to see a light show. It was okay, a bit dated in technical terms. But still worked optically. We also got to see one of our favorite sculptors, Juan Munoz, pieces "Last Conversation Piece" which is a permanent installation outside the Museum.
The walk along the Tidal Basin was jammed with people. But everyone was in good spirits, taking photos and lounging. This year we walked toward the Lincoln Monument rather than toward the Potomac as in the past. At one point a helicopter past overhead and sent the cherry blossoms flying through the air. Our walk took us to the new Martin Luther King Monument. The area has MLK quotes engraved in granite along a wall. Very moving and sad.
To end our day we stopped at the Corcoran, our first visit ever. The holdings are fantastic. There are many Hudson River School pieces.

The Nation's Capitol

The drive into DC from Juanita's and Carlton's is an easy 15-30 minutes when you do it at noon. Otherwise, it is a tangled nightmare of traffic. We chose the noon time trip. At the HIlton we were told our room would not be ready for a few hours. We walked around the corner to the Mozart Cafe for a light lunch. I thought the Renwick Gallery was close by and we headed for a quick visit. Unfortunately we headed the wrong direction. What should have been a 5 minute walk turned into a 30 minutes walk. The exhibit was not anything I was interested in, either. It was decorative arts from the White House archives. This was mostly furniture and china. In the past we have seen amazing exhibits of turned wood and jewelry.
Back at the hotel, Adam stopped by after work. He went to dinner with us at Alabardero, a Spanish restaurant. It was an elegant place and reminded us of Paris. Strange, I know, since it was trying to be Spanish. I haven't taken any pictures in 2 days, so you must be happy with the restaurant. Lo siento!

Manassas and Peking (Duck)

The first thing we did today was go into the Wegman's that is adjacent to the hotel. I've been curious about this chain. eh. The wine selection was great, but otherwise Whole Foods, et al, seems comparable. We went into Fredericksburg and had lunch at Soup Taco, a small Venezuelan restaurant near the visitor's center. My dish was sumptious homemade corn tortillas stuffed with refried beans, cheese and onions. George Washington, James Madison and James Monroe are among the luminaries who called Fredericksburg home. We drove out to Spotsylvania and then through the battlegrounds.
We arrived at Juanita's and Carlton's home in early afternoon. Sandra came over after work and we headed to Falls Church, VA to eat at the Peking Gourmet Inn. This Inn is famous for its....wait.....Peking Duck. They serve around 250 per day. Wow. The inside of the place was elegant and the waiters were dressed in red jackets. The duck is sliced at the table and the first pancake for each person is rolled by the waiter. After that, you're on your own. The foyer walls were covered with pictures of famous visitors, Presidents Clinton, Bush, Bush. It was a great day and a great time visiting with auntie and uncle. They are the best.

Manassas

We stayed in Staunton, VA last night. It is a lovely town that hosts Shakesperean plays on a regular bases. The town was spared during the Civil War and thus has beautifully preserved Victorian homes. The main street is long, unscathed and filled with shops, albeit shops with knick knacks. We ate last night in a beautifully converted rail station. Tonight we are staying in Fredericksburg. We aren't sure why we booked here since we toured the area 3 years ago. Instead of coming here directly we opted to visit Manassas' National Park. The main battle fields behind the visitor's center was picturesque with golden grasses and rolling hills. The film (there is always a film) at the center was very sad. Over 5000 casualties in the first battle and 25,000 in the second. For more pictures visit my flickr.

Folk Art and Highways

Before Southern Highland Craft Guild members. The Guild is an educational, non-profit organization founded in 1930. It is a network and market for mountain craftspeople. there are more that 900 artisan members who are selected by a jury. The quality is superb. Everyday a different member works at his/her craft on site. Today we saw a weaver. Her colors were so rich and beautiful. We purchased a small carved wooden bluejay to hang on our Christmas Tree. The remainder of the day was spent driving to Staunton, VA. It was another beautiful ride through the Smoky Mountains. See more photos at Flickr

Asheville Arts

Another beautiful day in the Smoky Mountains. Our hotel is a few miles from historic Asheville. We are near the Biltmore Estate. We drove into Asheville and headed for the Appalachian Crafts Center. It was closed on this Sunday and foretold the future for most all galleries. We walked up and down streets block to block window shopping and finding the occasional open store. All the restaurants were open and there was a nice band playing with some performers dancing near the Woolworth's. The city is filled with unusual characters dressed in mountain clothing, 1940's style. Long hair and bearded dudes with a lot of tattoos. People were lounging around on benches, dining at outdoor cafes, playing music, a real arts setting. I found a nice iron forged maple leaf hook and some sgraffito bird cards. We returned to the hotel about 4pm and sat on our sunny balcony to read. Tonight we ate at Ruth's Chris' Steak House along with the grim reaper. LOL See more photos at Flickr

On Top of Old Smoky

This is Waynesville, NC in the Great Smoky Mountains, very apropro as today is Wayne's birthday. Before we left Chattanooga we went to the Hunter Museum. We had been fascinated by the design and location of their new addition. It is somewhat reminiscent of a Geary design. It beautifully complements and overhangs the Tennessee River. The collection is good. I'm beginning to more and more enjoy museums in smaller cities that can't afford to hold the most noted works. In these smaller museums one can see works that were the beginnings of a career or the studies for larger works. It's refreshing to see these and sometimes surprising to see an unexpected style or approach of an artist I think I know well.
The drive to Asheville took us through a portion of the Smokies. I find it difficult to convey the beauty of these mountains. This time of year finds them displaying flowering dogwood and redwood among the occasional tender green of a maple. Now and then a rusty orange oak will declare itself. As we neared Asheville a storm of some magnitude formed over a distant mountain top announcing its presence with dark clouds and lightening. We entered Asheville through the rain. See more photos at Flickr

Pardon Me Roy, Is That the Cat That Ate Your New Shoes?

Chattanooga! We love you! What a great city full of promise and foresight, art and history. It's clean, friendly and interesting. We came here to see the Chickamauga and Lookout Mountain Civil War battle sites. We were surprised to find a vibrant arts and restaurant area on the river near our hotel. We spent the early part of the day at Chickamauga, which is actually in Georgia, touring the battle areas. The site is the oldest Civil War park. As such, it is filled with state monuments dedicated to the soldiers. The redbuds are abundant here. We next drove to Lookout Mountain. It was a harrowing hair pin after hair pin turning road to the top. Then we were hit with rain, lightening and hail. All very dramatic. There is a complete community of homes and schools on top. We were amazed that Hooker conquered the mountain without air conditioning and all wheel drive. Tonight we went to Sugar's for dinner. It is a BBQ joint. The ribs were fine, and we had a nice accompaniment of loud rock and roll music by a cover band. See more photos at Flickr

Mississippi Royalty

In order to drive from Oxford, MS to Chattanooga, TN, one must drive south to Birmingham and then north again to Tennessee. This traverse took us through Tupelo, MS, the birthplace of one Elvis Presley. Having already stopped on a corner in Winslow, AZ, how could we pass up the opportunity to see the place that shaped The King. After Elvis achieved some popularity (and money) he returned to Tupelo and bought back the house he was born in, which his father built, and the surrounding land. On that land now is a fairly large and nice gift shop and museum that covers his life in Tupelo. The house is a tiny 2 room abode, front bedroom and back kitchen. The church Elvis attended and sang gospel has been moved to the grounds. There were a surprising number of people here, even 3 women from Australia.
The countryside we passed through today was so beautiful. There are hundreds of redbuds scattered through the woods which are just beginning to break with pale green buds. Occasional dogwood dot the woods. As we drove east and north we entered the Appalachian Mountains. Chattanooga sits on Chickamauga Lake and Nickajack Lake, which are both part of the Tennessee River. Chattanooga abuts the Georgia border and lies at the transition between the ridge-and-valley portion of the Appalachian Mountains and the Cumberland Plateau. The city is therefore surrounded by various mountains and ridges.
We are staying near the river. The area is filled with restaurants, movie theater and an arts bluff area. As we've seen in many places the restaurants were filled with people, young, old and in between. It's hard to understand the recession. Maybe things really are improving. See more photos at Flickr.

The Sound and the Fury

Oxford, Mississippi, the home of Ole Miss and William Faulkner. Today the temps his 81, woo hoo. We started our day at Rowan Oak, Faulkner's 1844 antebellum home where he wrote the Pulitzer Prize winning A Fable's outlines on his study walls. Our research found out that James Lee Burke and Salman Rushdie have also visited there. It's a literary oddity to see those two listed together. It's also a serendipity that we were just in New Iberia seeking out James Lee Burke spots mentioned in his Robicheaux series. The grounds of Rowan Oak appear much as they did when Faulkner lived there with the out kitchen, barn, stable and servant's quarter still standing. Wayne has been reading Faulkner in preparation for this trip. After, we went to the town square to buy more Faulkner. The square's format is exactly like the Magnolia square. The courthouse in Magnolia is more charming. But the stores in Oxford are more upscale and the fronts preserved better. The stores are of 3 varieties: clothing, restaurants and book stores. Oh, and the occasional law firm. Ole Miss was disappointing to me. I expected the university to be quaint and situated walking distance from the town square. However, it is modern and spread out. We went to the museum, which had a paltry collection. Now we have discovered there is nothing else here to see except the Confederate Cemetery. We will dine on the square tonight and make haste for Chattanooga tomorrow. For more pictures visit my flicker

The Ninth Ward

Jackson Square is also known as Place d'Armes. There is a statue of Andrew Jackson sitting on his horse that was cast from melted British cannons captured during the war of 1812. During the Civil War the women of NO living around Jackson Square would empty their chamber pots on the Union soldiers' heads as they passed by. Union officers threatened to melt Jackson down made cannon out of him if the practice didn't stop.
We opted on a tour today. Initially, we booked with a city tour that we mistakenly thought was just for the Metairie Cemetery. Turns out it was a 3 hour walking tour of the French Quarter and a nearby cemetery. So, back to the hotel and the concierge to find what we needed. We found ourselves in a van with 2 people from Oklahoma and a 72 year old guide. He was a talker! Full of facts and figures. Nevertheless, we got a great look at the 9th ward and an understanding of how the flooding from Katrina happened. We saw the houses Brad Pitt has built and the Habitat for Humanity houses for the musicians. Next, he took us to the Garden District and pointed out the homes of John Goodman and Sandra Bullock and the Mannings of football fame. Lastly, we did go to Metairie. It is a fascinating mix of sculpture and architecture.
Dinner tonight was at Galatoire's. Until 1999, the restaurant did not accept reservations, leaving patrons to stand in long lines on the Bourbon Street sidewalk. With the addition of the second floor dining rooms and bar, standing on Bourbon Street is only needed for first floor dining room seats, which are still always first-come-first-served. It was the first and only restaurant where we've been asked if we had a preferred waiter. Tennessee Williams at here often at a table near the window and mentioned Galatoire's in A Streetcar Named Desire. For more pictures visit my flicker