Zealandia

Kaka Parrot

New Zealand struggles with protecting indigenous flora and fauna.  There are many species that have become extinct due to invasive plants and mammals.  In fact, NZ has only one native mammal, the bat.  Near Wellington is Zealandia, a sanctuary of native forest and lakes.  About the size of Manhattan, Zealandia is completely encased in a perimeter fence that excludes all introduced predators which have been eradicated within the borders.  Traps are set throughout the preserve simply to monitor the possibility of predators.  When asked about captures, our guide said, “None have ever been trapped.  If that happened there would be complete panic and breakdown.”  We hiked for about 2 hours observing mostly birds and flora.  The most interesting were the giant parrots, kakas.  They are not as vividly colorful as the South American, but have a more subtle feather display. Zealandia is located on a high hill near an area that was developed in the early 1900s for expensive homes. A cable car system was built to accommodate those living there with easy access to the town center.  After our Zealandia hike and the mandatory morning tea, we rode the Wellington Cable Car down to the city center. The ride gave us an excellent view of Wellington Harbour and its hilly backdrop.  It reminded me of our cable car rides in Lisbon.  

Te Papa Tongarewa Museum 

This afternoon we walked to Te Papa Tongarewa:  National Museum of New Zealand.  We had a docent led tour that introduced us to the key displays of Mauri.  Our docent was a Mauri, who added her personal experiences to the explanations of sculpture and houses.  One section of the Museum has a modern interpretation of the meeting house.  Mauri actually use the space for ceremony.  Also, at the museum was an exhibit, Gallipoli, illustrating the battle with tripled life size sculptures of soldiers as well as video and text.  

Tonight is our last night in New Zealand; tomorrow we fly to Sydney, Australia.  After dinner each person in the group told of there best experience/memory and offered suggestions for Road Scholar to consider.  Pictures at flickr.

The Ayes Have It

Supreme Court, Wellington

Armed with all our knowledge from last night’s lecture, we took off this morning to visit Parliament.  Parliament was not in session. The House looks very much like Britain’s House of Parliament.  Currently there are 5 parties with the Labor party forming the largest coalition.  From Parliament we walked to the nearby Supreme Court, which has been in existence only since 2004. Prior to that the right of appeal was held at the Privy Council based in London. There are only 5 judges.  The public can view court proceedings from behind a viewing glass without appointment.

The Wellington National Portrait Gallery

After lunch we were free to explore on our own.  Wayne and I went to the New Zealand Portrait Gallery where we saw this year’s chosen work from a juried show.  The works were quite nice and varied.  From the Gallery we walked along the harbor, explored a local market and then went to dinner with some from the group.

Foe, Jennifer, Wayne, Christy Healther, Betty

More pictures of the day are at flickr.

Back North to Wellington

Plane Table Lookout

Time for our whorl-wind tour to move on for Wellington today.  We first took a drive up to Plane Table Lookout for a view of the Gibson Valley,  Once again, the climb up in the coach was breath taking.  We were actually in the clouds and didn’t get a clear view of the valley.  It was eerie, though.  As we descended the clouds broke for great views of the valley.  Ian, our poetic leader, said he thought the clouds were going to hold us in Queenstown but now they’ve decided to release us.  Down in the Gibson Valley we stopped at a winery and cheesery, then a short stop to watch the crazy people bungee jump, and finally headed for Arrowtown.  

Arrowtown is a former gold-mining settlement.  This area of New Zealand had a major gold rush following the California gold rush.  Ian said there is no gold to be found on the surface any longer.  Only deep excavations currently produce.  Today, the little 150 meter town has become an upscale tourist stop with high-end clothing stores and restaurants.  There is a mixture of Marino wool and possum fur used here that makes the softest, most beautiful clothing.  The New Zealand possum looks nothing like the American Possum, and the fur is silky.  But most sweaters are around $400.  My memory of the feel will suffice.  

Flying to Wellington

This afternoon we boarded our 2 hour flight for Wellington.  Wellington has been the capital of New Zealand since 1865.  It sits on an amphitheater-like harbor formed by the flooding of the crater of a very large and long extinct volcano.  Rugged hills surround the harbor where its distinctive wooden houses (which have drawn parallels with San Francisco) perch precariously.  Wellington is the home town of Peter Jackson.  I’ll keep my eye out for hobbits. Pictures at flickr.

A Victorian Voyage to a Sheep Shearing

Aboard theTSS Earnslaw

This morning we sailed aboard the coal-fired vintage steamer TSS Earnslaw to Walter Peak Station.  The Earnslaw, locally known as the Lady of the Lake, was build in 1912 and is the only coal-fired passenger-carrying vessel in the Southern Hemisphere.  Her steam engines could be seen from an open viewing area on the second deck where they were kept running on one ton of coal an hour.  We’re pretty sure that was clean coal, though.  There was a definite air of the Victorian period aboard.  Live music was provided by a female pianist in proper attire, the coal engine was being fed manually, and the captain was in full uniform regalia.  I just needed my bustle to feel complete.  Our destination was the Walter Peak High Country Farm across Lake Wakatipu for lunch, sheep shearing and sheep herding.  This presentation was very commercial with about 200 adults and 2,000,000,000,000 kindergarteners watching the shearing on stage in a half-shell.  The dog herding was held outside.  But was only about a 3 minute demonstration of herding 5 sheep into a small pen.  Our look at herding in Ireland was so much richer and in-depth with only about 15 of us watching across a fence as the dogs performed various tasks for about 30 minutes.  The farmer stood with us explaining each whistle, finger snap and call for the dogs.  

Our afternoon was free, which we relished.  Free that is until the fire alarm forced us to vacate the hotel.  We were allowed back inside after about 30 minutes with no explanation.  Pictures are at flickr.

Milford Sound and Queenstown

The Chasm, Near Milford Sound

We have now experienced “You can’t get there from here”.  But, the getting there and back again was a delightful drive through the most scenic splendor.  The area is called Te Wahipounamu... but you can just call it Fjordland.  It is South West New Zealand, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed landscape.  Rather than trying to describe the magnificent mountains and the gorgeous plains, I’ll just suggest you linger over my photos and image something 10 times better.  As our new site coordinator, Ian said.  “I love to watch what mood the mountains will reveal each day.”  Our destination from Te Anau was Milford Sound, a two hour drive north where we took a cruise through the sound out towards the Tasman Sea.  The weather has been very kind to us and was again today.  The Sound is actually a fjord created by glaciers.  We made a few photo op stops and a small hiking stop through The Chasm.

Queenstown from Bob’s Peak

Next stop was Queenstown.  But you truly cannot get there from Milford Sound.  So...back south to Te Anau, turn left and head north for another 2 hours. Queenstown is not a favorite of our guides because it is a tourist town.  They prefer the more remote areas where tramping (hiking) is best.  We’re okay with Queenstown because our hotel it top notch and the WiFi is fast.  We have a good view of Lake Wakatipu and had dinner on Bob’s Peak accessed by a gondola.  Let me add here that at all but one stop we have had 5 star meals.  Tonight’s offering was buffet style with every meat, fish and vegetable one could want.  The tuna sashimi was the best I have ever tasted. Photos at flickr.

From the Antarctic to the Fjords

Before leaving Christchurch we made a quick detour to the Antarctic.  Glad we brought our coats. Brrrrr.  Actually, we visited the International Antarctic Centre where the nearest mainland base for the US, NZ and Italian is.  From here the crew and supplies are flown to their respective Antarctic bases.  There was some geological information provided on the continent as well as treaty and agreements among the world’s countries.  To give us a bit of the taste of being there in the winter, we were taken to a simulation room that was packed with snow.  There, the lights were lowered to simulate winter and the temperature dropped to 23.  I thought, “eh.  New England.” Then the wind machines started.  When the wind chill factor kicked in for 0 degrees, I revised my opinion.  There was a neat 4D cinema shot through the Antarctic with seals, penguins, icebergs, water spray and wind.  We also got a cute view of the little blue penguins.

The Flat, Flat Land of Invercargill

The remainder of the day was dedicated to travel.  We flew to Invercargill where we had a lecture introducing us to Southland, the southernmost province.  This area is the agricultural backbone of New Zealand.  It is amazingly flat.  The cool thing about the lecture was he and I have both been to Magnolia, Arkansas.  He was explaining a local large hydro dam that was exclusively built for the manufacture of aluminum.  During that explanation he discussed bauxite and its sources.  “I’ve been to Arkansas, which is beautiful.  But, I can’t remember the name of the little town.”  Guess what?  He stayed in Magnolia, he guest taught at Magnolia High School, and he met Dr. John Ruff.  It truly is a small, small world.

Southland

From Invercargill we drove through the Southland toward Fjordland and the hamlet of Te Anau on Lake Te Anau.  The drive was about 3 hours through beautiful land and along the Tasman Sea.  See my pictures at flickr.

Akaroa Harbor

View of Akaroa Harbor

This morning we took a coach out to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsula. It was about 1.5 hours  drive through historic settlements of the Maori, French and other Europeans.  Akaroa is a historic French and British settlement nestled in the heart of an ancient volcano.  The Akaroa harbor was once a lake.  But two volcanic eruptions opened the lake to the Pacific Ocean.  Because the French were here, there are roads and areas with French names.  Canterbury (where Christchurch and Akaroa are) is called a Parish.  At one time all of the area was covered in trees.  Today, it is mostly grasslands.  All the trees were cut for exportation and local building.  

Cruising the Akaroa Harbor

At Akaroa we boarded a catamaran for a cruise in the harbor and out into the Pacific to view spectacular sea caves, volcanic formations, high cliffs and bird nesting sites.  Some of the cliffs had evidence of lava flows that had cooled.  There were layers of evident volcanic ash, lava, ash, lava.  The water was green, green, the cliffs red, green, gray, silver.  We saw Hector’s Dolphins, one of the world’s rarest and smallest dolphins.  They are only about 4 feet long.  Today they were feeding and stayed just under the surface.  We also saw blue penguin and fur seals.  The day was warm and clear.  We’ve been most fortunate.  Pictures at flickr.

Kiwis and Christchurch

Taxidermist Kiwi

When we left Rotorua this morning, we first stopped at a Redwood Forest.  NZ attempted to grow redwoods for commercial purposes.  As it happened, the trees liked it so much and they grew so fast that the wood was too open and unfit for use.  The trees here were only about 50 years old and quite big.  

Next, we made a stop at Rainbow Springs, home to the National Kiwi Trust.  Since 1995 it ha been a nursery and hatchery for over 1350 kiwi eggs.  When sufficiently mature the chicks are released into the wild where the eggs were gathered.  We were allowed to watch behind glass as the chicks were weighed and measured.  They were about the size of a large pigeon and very feisty, kicking and squirming.  Our guide said they never imprint on the human and are easily released.  We viewed 3 adults that are permanent residents due to injury or handicaps.  They reverse night and day in the facility to allow for our viewing.  Surprisingly to me was how soft the feathers seemed.  The numbers are remaining stable UIKeyInputDownArrowbut not increasing mainly because of introduced predators like stoats, possum, rats, dogs, cats.  There were no mammals on New Zealand until the Maori came.

Parking Lots Dot Downtown Where Buildings Once Stood

This afternoon we flew to Christchurch for a 2 night stay.  On our coach ride to the hotel, our guide lectured on the earthquakes of 2010 and 2012 and pointed out the devastation and rebuilding still ongoing.  In my pictures you will see the large areas of vacant lots where houses have been cleared and no one is allowed to live there again.  Downtown is a jumble of parking lots where once stood buildings.  Huge cargo containers are stack one upon another to hold up buildings awaiting repair.  Christchurch was once known for its English Gothic architecture.  Now, most of that is gone. 70% of the central city buildings were destroyed and are now gone.  

Riccarton House

Tonight we went to Riccarton House for dinner.  Riccarton House is a significant early homestead.  Preserved there is a bush of native lowland polocarp forest.  The bush is securely enclosed with fine mesh fencing, electric wiring and traps.  We got a tour with explanation of the plants and birds.   Prior to dinner we had a tour of the house with a history of the family that settled there, the Deans (go Scots!).  After dinner we had a most delightful story teller.  Margaret Copland, in character, presented a biography of maternal great, great grandmother who came from England and her paternal great, great grandmother who came from Poland.  She was excellent.  Most of the pictures at flickr are not interesting except to document the devastation that still remains in Christchurch from the two earthquakes. But if you persevere to the end you will see videos of the life Kiwi.   Pictures at flickr

Volcanoes, Mud Pools and Spears

Waitangi Volcanic Valley

Road Scholar is keeping us busy just about every minute.  Today we had three different site visits starting with the Waitangi Volcanic Valley.  Waitangi is the only major geothermal system in the world wholly created as the direct result of a volcanic eruption within historic times. Geologists come from all over the world to study the area and set up monitoring systems.  The exact day, July 10 1886, has been pinned down as the day the activity began.  That is the day of the Tarawera eruption when a crater was formed that encompassed two small lakes into one large Lake Rotomahana. The area sits in the Pacific “Ring of Fire” where the Pacific Tectonic Plate meets the India-Australian Tectonic Plate.  We began our site visit with a boat ride around Lake Rotomahana where we could observe the many steam vents and volcanic rock walls.  After, we hiked down into the Volcanic Valley where we could saw 3 other craters each consisting of different temperatures and minerals.  The colors of the deposits were beautiful, the earth was emitting heat, the water bubbling and spewing.  All plant and animal life here was obliterating in 1886.  Today the area is free of exotic and non native plants under the protection of its Scenic Reserve Status.  It looked like Jurassic Park to us with the 60’ ferns.

Arts and Crafts Institute

After lunch beside Rotorua’s Government Gardens where bocce courts were active and impatients grew 3 feet high, we went to the Maori Arts and Crafts Institute.  The Institute is set in another
thermal area with boiling mud pools and the spectacular Pohutu geyser which erupts up to 90 feet.  We missed that phenomenon, but did get a bit of a burp.  The goal of the Institute is to encourage and train young Moira in the traditional Maori arts and crafts.  We walked through the Institute and observed wood and stone carving, and weaving using both modern and traditional tools.

Maori Culture Performance

This evening we had a traditional Hangi dinner and Maori cultural performance and war dance.  This was similar to our dinner and performance at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.  We both thought the Waitangi performance far superior.  I’m guessing that is because this Maori Village uses its extended family to perform rather than seeking out the best and professional performers.  At our dinner were about 100 people from all over the Northern Hemisphere: Poland, Egypt, France, Norway, England, Canada, Korea, Luxembourg and more.  Our host asked where people were from and then greeted and joked with them in their native language.  He was amazing and very funny.  As a note, the Maori Villages we visit are much like a tribe made up of extended family.  For example, there are 3000 family members of the Te Puia tribe that operate the Arts and Crafts Institute.  They all make a point of thanking us for our interest in the culture and how tourism has allowed them to save and revive their culture. Pictures at flickr.

Glow Little Glow Worm, Glimmer Glimmer

We left Auckland today and began our journey south.  We traveled through rolling green countryside populated with cows and sheep.  NZ is making more money from the exportation of milk and butter fat than anything else.  It was evident how low the population density is here.  On occasion were volcanic formations, thick bush and ostrich.

Outside the Glowworm Caves

Our first stop was in Waitomo where the glowworm caves are.  Our entrance was delayed by 30 minutes because the CO2 level was too high.  These worms are well protected.  The glowworm is unique to New Zealand.  The caves were discovered by two men and now belong to a Maori family of some 3000 descendants who benefit from the operation.  The caves are limestone and, thus, white as snow stalagtites, stalagmites and walls make up the cavern.  At the base of the cave we boarded a boat for a brief water exit. Quiet was the rule while we viewed the glowing little critters, heard the drip, drip, drip echo of the water and marveled at the glowworms’ reflections in the river. The glowing that one sees is from the maggot stage of a fly.  The glow is to attract river insects that the glowworm eats.  In a light the guide shown, we could see the thousands of clear filament strands that hangs from each worm and traps dinner.  The glow is a bright blue bioluminescence against the blackness of the ceilings.  When the glowworm becomes a fly flowing the cocoon stage, it only lives for about 5 days because it has no way to eat.  It starves to death.  But, there is a lot of sex going on to produce the next generation of glowing worms.  So never fear, there will always be light in the tunnel. No photos are allowed, though.  So you must go to see YouTube.

Volcanic Boulders Waikato

Rotorua, our final destination, is nicknamed Sulphur City.  Here is the most thermal activity in the country including hot springs, geysers and bubbling mud pools.  As we drove through the town there were 8’ pipes in private yards spewing steam.  As we exited our bus, we acknowledged  that Sulphur City is indeed a proper nickname.  More on all that steam tomorrow. Photos of the day at flickr.

Earth, Wind and Fire (also water)

Our lecturer today was one Dr. John Walsby, a spry little leprechaun who could not stop talking or leaping around for the entire day.  He is quite the Renaissance man: a marine biologist, natural historian, writer, illustrator and educator.  Gesticulating, joking, slinging chalk around, he lectured us on the geology of Auckland and the local coastlines.  After morning tea (yes, we have daily morning tea) we headed out with John for a first hand look at the geology he had lectured on.  It was fascinating to see the physical evidence of the volcanic and earthquake activity.  From tree fossils encased in lava on the coast to fossilized sea life we got a grand understanding of New Zealand’s formation.  He pointed out varied plant life, we stopped at caldera Lake Pupuka where black swan competed with wind surfers.  The wind surfers won my vote when they stripped out of their wet suits next to our bus.  We climbed North Head (another volcano) to see fortifications centered around massive guns installed to protect Auckland Harbor during WWII when American ships stationed there.

Dinner was on our own tonight.  Wayne and I went to the cinema to see Black Panther.  People in our group couldn’t stop raving about it.  One woman had seen it twice.  Hey, we thought, his is not to be missed.  We bought tickets at the Gold Class theater where one can be served dinner and drinks and lounge in a recliner.  The recliners were fabulous.  There is seating for 30 people with not a bad seat in the theater.  The servers are very quiet as they check on your needs.  I tell you all this because that was the best part of the movie.  Wayne and I think there is something wrong with our expectations because we found the movie boring.  We’re afraid to tell anyone else in the group.  We’re still wondering, what are we missing. Pictures at flickr

Sails, Gardens and Museums

All the Road Scholar tours include lectures by local experts on specifics about the local area.  We began with our series of lectures today when Gordon McLauchlan presented an introduction to New Zealand history.  He is a well know local author and journalist.  He gave us a good accounting of the Maori settlement of New Zealand, the coming of the Europeans, the war and treaty times between the British and the Maori, and current times.

Auckland Harbor Sail

Following the lecture we walked to the Viaduct Basin for a sail in the Waitematā Harbor.  The winds were up; the sun was out; the sail was perfect as we sliced through the channel, under the Auckland Bridge and around the volcanic cones.  I haven’t been sailing in years.  It brought back memories of great times sailing with friends to Cuttyhunk.

My Eden Gardens

After the sail our busy day continued with a motor coach ride to Eden Garden which was created in an abandoned quarry at the base of Mt Eden 45 years ago by a group of volunteers. The quarry was dug into Mt. Eden which was a volcanic mountain.  There are 50 volcanic cones in Auckland. The garden had a Jurassic feel with its impressive 40’ ferns as well as a variety of bromeliads.

Rangitoto Island from the War Memorial

Not to let us get bored or find time to complain, we were immediately bussed off to the Auckland War Memorial Museum.  The best part of this museum is that it was not completely about War.  A good part held a large collection artifacts from the Maori and Pacific Islands.  There was an entire carved meeting house built in 1878. The carving ability of the Maori using only stones is most impressive.  Some of the totem-like pieces date back to the early 1300s.  Lots of water pictures at flickr.

Auckland Redux

Tour Leader, Heather and Site Coordinator, Albert, in his Park

There is not too much to report on today.  It was a slow and lazy day.  We believe the Road Scholar leaders are easing into touring to allow the others in our group to recuperate from jet lag.  Late morning we had an orientation meeting to go over logistics and introduce ourselves.  One couple has been on 30 RS trips.  There are photographers among us. Everyone is retired and  around our age.  There are 2 single women but all others are married, white Anglo and heterosexual.  (As far as we know).  There are 24 of us plus our site coordinator, Albert, and the tour leader, Heather. Of the 10 or so people we have spent time with, they are all interesting conversationalists, very well traveled, progressive and have an open dislike of Trump.  At last night’s dinner I did get trapped with one woman who talked about her grandchildren extensively.  This morning when she introduced herself she started on the grandchildren and a majority of the group yelled, “No grandchildren!”  I like them!  

Most of the Group

This afternoon Albert took us around central Auckland.  Much of it was areas we had been in.  But he added to that by pointing out significant buildings, the architectural style and period, and the current use.  

Auckland Harbor from the Grand Mercure Dining Room

Yes, people.  That is a cargo ship sitting in Auckland Harbor.

The group in front of the Auckland Museum.

Handing Over the Keys

We had a leisurely leaving of Waiheke today.  Went down to Oneroa to buy a hat because I left mine behind at one of the vineyards yesterday.  I am not Scala hat worthy.  I have left one in Greece and now one in New Zealand (stay tuned for the sequel).  We bought a hat, had a gelato and then Wayne insisted we go to the vineyard where I left my hat, Peacock Sky.  Lo and behold, after some consultation with numerous people my hat appeared.  Now I have 2.  Are two hats better than one?

Eating Gelato in Oneroa

Upon arriving in Auckland, we dropped our Avis car and Ubered to the Grand Mercury Hotel which is a block up from the Princess Wharf and Auckland Harbor.  This evening we met up with our Road Scholar tour group. I will hold off on descriptions, critiques, and overall New England snobbish comments until a few days of breaking bread together have passed.  But, I’m hoping for some entertaining stories to emerge.  Stay tuned.

Ferry from Waiheke to Half Moon Bay

Ananda Artisan Wine Tour

Our Ananda Tour Group at Lunch

We took the Ananda Artisan Wine Tour today to four vineyards.  The first, Peacock Sky, was the best experience. There each tasting was paired with a food to compliment the wine.  This is a ‘degustation' experience in the French tradition. Our hostess was from Manhattan and on her way to becoming a world class product representative.  She was very good at explaining the effect each food had on the taste of the wine and why.  We had lunch at our next stop, Stonyridge.  The tasting was fast and straight forward without food.  The platter style lunch came after and was nice.  Our group was fun and all interested in learning more about the production of wine.  A young couple had just moved from Scotland.  She was born in New Zealand and had spent the last 9 years in Scotland with her bonnie beau.  I could not understand a word he said.  Wayne often quotes Churchill, “two peoples separated by a common language”.  The second couple was from Georgia but living in England.  I could understand both of them.  

Tantulus Vineyard

Our third stop at Tantulus was the most glamorous. The chandeliers were made from the vineyard’s old vines.  The new Canadian owners began with a different and more suitable grape variety, but gave a nod to the old.  The fourth and final stop was at Mudbrick, a vineyard we had visited.  The personnel at all the vineyards are frequently French.  Whether to add to the ambiance or simply a coincidence, I don’t know.  The wine industry is just a baby here.  The oldest vineyard was established in 1978. Way too many sunset pictures are at Flickr.

Vineyard Hopping

No hot water today: cold showers and cold breakfast.  Just partially kidding.  The shower went cold toward the end but while the soap was still covering the bod.  Alice, our cottage manager, responded promptly by coming over and switching the propane tanks.  They don’t have hot water tanks to store the heated water.  It’s directly heated from the propane.  Since we had to switch houses once and then have a cold shower, she compensated with a late check out on Saturday.

We struck out on our own today for bites at several vineyards not on our Friday tour.  At Alice’s suggestion we started at To Motu (think tomato) where we had an octopus small plate.  I had rose and Wayne had a Cabernet blend. Neither of us had the To Motu wines as a glass started at $45.  We had Dunleavy which started at $12.  And, as Wayne likes to say, “That’s New Zealand dollars!”.

Passage Rock Wine Glass Vine Sculpture

 Next stop was Passage Rock where we had pizza.  I had rose; Wayne had water.  The most interesting here were the sculptures formed from grape vines.  Also, they left some vine rows uncovered where we tasted the grape directly from the vine. Then, with no GPS service we worked our way to Man O’ War which sits on Man O’ War Bay.  This was the best of all. Not for the vineyard which we actually skipped, but for the drive past about 9 bays that just take your breath away.  My photos will not do justice to the blue and turquoise of the water, the vastness and depth of the space, or the land masses and islands. Nor will you see Wayne’s white knuckles as he drove through traveled, one lane, twisting roads.

With this drive today we have pretty much circumvented the Island and, along with Condé Nast rate it among the world’s top 20 islands.  See pictures of it at flickr.

A Day of Art and Wine

View from Matahaipo Bach

We moved today to the cottage we had originally rented.  It is down Island a bit but still close to where the action is.  It is also in need of paint and yard work.  The bed has a significant slant to the east.  Only the view is top notch.  But it is clean; the kitchen is functional; washer and dryer are on site; the internet is sort of fast.

This whole island has a bohemian vibe that reminds me of Key West or the Caribbean.  For example, today we looked for art galleries and artists.  I was particularly interested in one of the artists who works in kauri. Walking steeply down the drive to his studio, we passed huge caches of kauri, several small dwellings and work spaces.  At the bottom of the steep, twisting, overgrown drive was a cottage with one side completely open to a patio.  On the patio were three 20 somethings just chilling out.  “Hi Ya. No we’re not the owner. He’s at the other studio.  He just comes and goes. Have a g’day.”  

Drive Way to Kauri Studio

UIKEYINPUTDOWNARROW

Drive Way to Kauri Studio

We next went to the Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant.  It is a gorgeous estate with manicured gardens of lavender hedges...HEDGES and topiary olive trees.  We had a small tasting of a Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Cabernet/Merlot blend.  They grow Bordeaux grape varietals but also use other grapes for some pressings.  From what I can determine, none of the vineyards process the grapes into wine.  They seem to use a vintner at a mysterious location “where they work closely with the vintner to achieve the quality wine you are now tasting”.  We are taking a wine tour Friday, and I will get to the bottom of this. Pictures of the gorgeous Mudbrick at flickr.

Cyclone Surfs

Onetangi Beach

We spent the day exploring and getting a feel for the Island.  The heaviest populated area is in the northern part of the Island where a small town sits.  There are dozens of art galleries we will check out later.  We drove on through that town into the more rural areas where the vineyards are.  Some of them seem to be on almost vertical tracks of land.  Because of the hilly terrain there are very scenic and expansive views of all the several bays, the Tasman Sea and the Gulf.  Cyclone Gita has been causing havoc north of here near Australia.  The southern Alps have slowed it to heavy winds.  We got a taste of it at Onetangi Beach.  See the pictures at flickr.

Island Living in Waiheke

Waiheke view from the Wine Loft

A good part of today was spent driving from Whangarei to Auckland and then taking a car ferry to Waiheke.  Waiheke is the second-largest island in the gulf with about 9000 permanent residents.  Like Wareham there are also summer homes for an additional 3500 visitors.  It is very hilly with only a few flat areas.  The narrowest point is only 2000’ wide.  The beaches are many and scenic.  

The Winemakers Loft

There was a bit of a mix up with our rental when they double booked our first day. As a result we are in another “Bach” for 2 days.  (Bach is the local term for a small rental).  We’re okay with it.  It sits high up in the middle of vineyards and sheep pastures with an overlook of Hauraki Gulf and Auckland in the distance.  We are in Waiheke for 5 days with plans to use the Hop On/Hop Off bus to visit the vineyards for which Waiheke is notable. Pictures of our day at flickr.

Whangarei Waterfall and a Coastal Look See

Whangarei Water Fall

Even though we are staying in a Hotel.com lodge, it is much like a B and B with a made to order breakfast.  They even have individual French press coffee, our favorite.  Andy, the owner with wife Karen, was the chef.  I’m not sure if they live in the house.  The kitchen and dining room are in a building adjacent to the house.  There is another building across from the kitchen is that I believe has rooms.  The grounds are huge with orchards, stone walls and hedges that go to the clouds.  They have sheep, chickens, cattle and an ancient goat.  Andy gave us suggestions for the day.  We took his advise to start at Whangarei Water Falls.  These Falls are much more impressive than Rainbow and Hururu in Russell.  First, they are white, not brown.  But they have nice swimming holes at the top and bottom where locals were spending time.

Sandy Bay

From the Falls we drove up along the east coast to Matapouri and the Sandy Bay.  Here we had our first glimpse of real surf and surfers.  Along the way we passed through other small waterfront settlements with fishermen, sailors, and fun seekers.  Every harbor seems packed with sail boats.  The terrain here is fairly hilly with great vistas.  Quickly one can be looking at vast pastures and then suddenly be in deep woods.  

The Tidal Basin

This evening we went downtown to an area called The Tidal Basin which is where we had dinner the first evening.  Many sailboats are anchored there with people having dinner onboard.  Interestingly, most of them have photovoltaic panels mounted on them.
Pictures at flickr.