Sarasota

The Howard Brother's Circus Model

We revisited the Ringling Center for the Cultural Arts today.  John and Kathy had never been and it is certainly a place one can revisit.  We had not visited The Circus Museum our first time and so did today.  The cornerstone of the Museum is the world's largest miniature circus, a model replica of Ringling Bros and Barnum & Bailey Circus from 1919-1938.  It took Howard Tibbals more than 50 years to build.  Other circus memorabilia  in the museum were costumes and wagons, games and posters.  
The John and Mable Ringling home on the grounds is a 5 story, 56 room palatial winter residence modeled on the Venetian Gothic style. This web site will give you a good idea of the grandeur.

Finally, we visited the Museum, which is now Florida's official state museum and houses over 500 years of the history of European art.  Our group voted one of the new acquisition as a favorite.  It is a glass sculpture, about 10 inches high, of a seated woman by Nicolas Africano.  The above image is not the sculpture we saw, but it is one that gives you an idea of his style.  The transparency is so beautiful.  
Tonight we drove to St. Armand's Circle to have dinner at Columbia, a Peruvian restaurant, recommend to us by Jack and Julien.  It was a warm evening that made for a beautiful stroll around the circle following dinner.  Pictures at flickr.

Anna Maria

Anna Maria Beach

This is our first day spent just relaxing and getting to know Anna Maria.  I took a walk this morning that went far beyond my intended goal.  It ended up being about a 4 mile, hour and a half trek.  Half was walked on the beach and half back through the streets.  When I left the beach it seems I had walked all the way to Holmes Beach.  So I walked the neighborhoods on my return as the sand can be tiring to walk on.  Most homes have rental signs in front.  So our options can be many should we elect to return here next year.  

Wayne went exploring in the car while I was walking and found a good little fish market and a bakery. We needed hor d'oeuvres for Kathy's and John's arrival.  We had dinner at the Beach Bistro.  Everything about it was what we liked:  sophisticated atmosphere with just the right noise level, extensive wine list, and inventive menu.  I liked the strawberry and arugula salad best.  A few pictures are at flickr.

Day Trip to Fort Myers

Fort Myers Art Festival

Today we drove down to Fort Myers in order to visit their annual art festival.  It's a 2 day event with over 200 artists, music and food.  The sun felt so good as we walked around.  The art was mostly commercial and did not appeal to me.  Some of the jewelry was nice and the leather purses.  But the prices were very high.  We stuck to a $5 pizza.  Tonight we are in watching the Ravens dominate the 49ers.  Half time has just ended with Beyonce doin' her thang.  She's amazing.  A few pictures are at flickr.

Daytona Beach to Anna Maria Island

Entering Anna Maria Island

It was a short 3 hour drive today from Daytona to Anna Maria.  We cruised right past Orlando without a thought or temptation to visit Disney World.  Although, we did consider Gator World, one of our favorite places.  
Anna Maria is a very small (1 sq mile) municipality on Anna Maria Island.  The Island is one of several keys that lie west of Sarasota.  Last year we stayed here for a week on Longboat Key.  The keys are connected by causeways.  Our house is large but dated.  We think it may belong to a young couple who have inherited it from parents or grandparents.  We base this on the generational pictures everywhere, the plastic coverings on furniture and the dated kitchen gadgets.  It is raised with parking under the house.  This allows for a great balcony where one can view the water.  We are about  50 yards from the beach.  
We are settling in tonight after shopping for essentials and having hot dogs.  

Daytona Beach

North Turn Restaurant

John and Kathy showed us the Daytona Beach area today.  The beach here is 23 miles long and hard packed sand.  11 of those miles allow cars to drive along it and park during the day.  John drove us down those 11 miles.  At the end we pulled out onto the road and into The North Turn Restaurant which is located at the original Speedway's north turn.  It was warm enough to eat outside and enjoy the Atlantic.  After lunch we drove around looking at the different neighborhoods and finally stopping at John D. Rockefeller's summer home, The Casements.  It is an unostentatious house which is now the cultural and civic center for the City of Ormond Beach.  Some of the rooms retain original pieces, pictures.  Our final stop of the day was at The Daytona International Speedway.  While I know or care nothing for racing, it was interesting to see something so famous.  There was a walk of fame with winner's hand and foot prints in the walk.  Dale Earnhardt was the only name I recognized.  This evening Wayne and John cooked steaks for us.
More pictures can be seen here at flickr.

Savannah to Daytona Beach

Savannah River

We started the day with a walk along the Savannah River waterfront.  The entire area is one long road of gallery, shop, and restaurant after another on one side of the road facing the open river.  My mission was to find the best peanut shop I have ever been to.  Twice, I've bought nuts here, but this time I couldn't find it.  However, the weather was warm, the walk pleasant.  It is early spring here and the trees are blooming.  It was about a 3 hours' drive to Daytona where we are staying with John and Kathy.  The house is beautiful with two outdoor living spaces with fireplaces.  John had prepared oysters on the half shell, crab legs, shrimp and cheese.  For dinner he served the wonderful mussels and pork dish that he is soooooo good at making.  Some photos are here at flickr.

Savannah

The Olde Pink House

Most of today was spent driving from Durham to Savannah.  We're listening to Ian Rankin's latest Rebus book, which helps the time pass and also reminds us of our time in Edinburgh where the book is set.  Our hotel is on Bay Street overlooking the Savannah River.  It is a perfect location to enjoy the sights of Savannah.  Tonight we walked one block to The Olde Pink House, a significant historic home turned restaurant for dinner.  We have eaten here before and knew it to be good.  This time we did not make reservations but walked in and requested a table in the cellar tavern where jazz is played.  On our first try we were there an hour before the Tavern opened so we walked to a local pub, The Churchill, to kill time.  There the bartender chatted with us about the trip.  He had recommendations for restaurants in Daytona Beach.  Back at The Olde Pink House we worked our way through throngs of people and waiters to the cellar.  It was packed to the gills with diners.  Playing jazz at the piano was quite a character; a woman of significant age wearing bright red sequined gown, bright red plumed hat and lipstick to match.  Her voice was so-so.  The room is very nice with  a large fireplace lounging area, an end to end bar and small tables along the wall.  We were told there would be a 1/2 hour wait.  We stood and listened to the chanteuse for about 15 minutes.  The hostess told us there was a table cancellation and took us to a small domed adjacent room where the wine was stored.  It was delightful.  We overate but had great fun as we were catered to by a charming waitress from Maine who knew of Joe and Lex.    See some more pictures here.

Durham, NC

Duke University Gardens

We are definitely south of the Mason Dixon Line today.  While yesterday we were bundled up against sleet and cold, today we shed our jackets to enjoy the 70 degree sunny weather of Durham, North Carolina.  We started our day at Duke University and the Nasher Museum where a fabulous show of 50 works collected by the Cone sisters of Baltimore was on view.  The Cone sisters began collecting art in 1905 directly out of the Parisian studios of Matisse, Picasso and more.  They were great friends with Gertrude and Leo Stein who introduced them around the Parisian art scene. The collection is just beautiful with pieces I've seen only in reproduction like Matisse's Large Reclining Nude.  You may link here to see a few of the pieces.    There is one other gallery of several enclaves that holds a few acquisitions, some Greek & Roman antiquities, and a show of works chosen from the collection, Exposing the Gaze: Gender and Sexuality in Art. Here, I saw a Mickalene Thomas, the artist currently showing at the ICA in Boston.  I was pleased to see a Petah Coyne (having met her several times at my old Fairhaven neighborhood B&B)  The last time I saw her work it was all white wax.  This piece was black.   
Later, we visited the Duke Chapel, which is a strong example of collegial Gothic architecture.  The organ was impressive, but we were puzzled by the representation of Girolamo Savanarola in the door jam statues.  He was responsible for the Bonfire of the Vanities, a most sad campaign of burning art and other vanities.  
A final campus venue was the Duke Gardens.  Extensive and already showing spring life, the gardens are 55 acres that include rose and iris gardens, a koi pond and 5 miles of pathways.  
We drove downtown for lunch where we found The American Tobacco & City Center.  Here, the old tobacco factories have been converted into a mixed use place of restaurants, businesses and schools.  We had a nice lunch at Cuban Revolution.  Nearby was the Bull Durham baseball stadium.  
Tonight we found Nana's, a very above average restaurant.  Wayne had a scrumptious short rib dish and I had risotto with a duck confit salad.  The waiter was professional.  The art on the walls superb, Jane Filer.  
See some of our day at flickr.

The Philadelphia Barnes

The Barnes

We had a 10:30 docent tour at the new Barnes this morning.  The last time we visited the Barnes it was in Merion.  Today the collection is in downtown Philly adjacent to the Museum of Art.  After much finagling the court allowed the Barnes to move its collection. While the exterior and the entrance areas are unlike the Merion building, the interior layout for the collection is identical to Dr. Barnes original setup. And what a fabulous collection it is.  Every room is packed with the greatest art from the 19th & 20th century.  The representations of Cezanne, Renoir, and Matisse are mouth watering.  Wayne and I had great fun visiting each room and then each of us deciding which piece we would take home. The foundation posses more than 2,500 objects, including 800 paintings estimated to be worth about $25 billion.  Dr. Albert Barnes derived his fortune from the development of the antiseptic drug Argyrol, used to prevent blindness from infection in newborns.  It was his goal in life to use this art to educate the greater public about art.  Still, today that is the mission of the Foundation.
We left a snowy and cold Philadelphia around noon and arrived in a much warmer Durham about 7pm.  We're settled in for 2 days here.  
A few more pics of the Barnes are at flickr.flickr

Philadelphia

Philadelphia City Hall, Broad St.

We had a really nice day.  We left West Haven about mid morning and arrived in Philadelphia around 1pm.  We are staying in the same hotel we used last year, The Double Tree on Broad Street.  It's a perfect location for us.  We can walk to everything.  Broad Street is the central artery of Philly and home to the major performance and art centers.  Out our 25th floor room we look directly down Broad St to the Philadelphia City Hall atop of which sits a sculpture of William Penn.  Much to my amazement I discovered the sculptor to be Alexander Calder, grandfather to the 20th century sculptor of the same name.  Tonight we had a perfect dinner at The Capital Grill. Everything was cooked to perfection, the service was unobtrusive and complete and the setting rich and comfortable.  After dinner we saw Oscar Wilde's An Ideal Husband at the Walnut Street Theater, America's oldest theater.  It is over 200 years old and has had such notable performers as the Barrymores, Will Rogers, The Marx Brothers, Helen Hayes, Henry Fonda, Sidney Poitier and Jack Lemon.  The play was funny and the acting good although a bit dated in its take on women.  

Yale University Gallery

Wayne admiring Abbey

Our winter trip began today with a short 3 hour hop from Wareham to New Haven, CT.  I had read Sebastian Smee's account of the new Yale University Gallery and wanted to visit.  The collection is marvelous, second only Harvard as a university collection.  According to Smee, 

"The result is wonderful.  For breadth, depth, and that crucial ingredient (call it the 'umami' of gallery-going), a sense of delectation and surprise, there can't be many museum-going experiences anywhere in the country to rival it.  The collection, like many other college art galleries (but with greater claim to success than most), aims at universality. Yale’s justly famous collections of American, European old master, and modern and contemporary art are complemented by more than respectable holdings in Indo-Pacific, African, Ancient American, Ancient Mediterranean, and Asian art, each of which have dedicated galleries. Photography, prints, drawings, Islamic art, and coins and medals also get a look-in. The American decorative arts displays are a knockout.

Both of us remembered Edwin Austin Abbey's  Richard, Duke or Gloucester and The Lady Anne from a visit several years ago.  Abbey painted several large paintings to illustrate a book of Shakespeare plays.  Hamlet Play Scene is hung on the adjacent wall to Richard.

The area around the Yale Gallery is filled with cafes and book stores as one would expect on a university campus.  We ate at the counter of the Atticus Book Store where we were waited on by a beautiful, friendly and funny Hispanic woman who had the features of a Mayan.  The entire wait staff of about 20 people hustled and bustled around, never stopping for a moment and all jabbering in Spanish and English.  It was simply delightful.

Later, we had clam pizza at the famous Pepe's Pizza. The line was out the door and about an hour's wait.  Since is was about 15 degrees, we went to the original Pepe's in the back of the new Pepe's and waited inside for about 15 minutes.  

A blurry me waiting for pizza.

There are a few pictures at flickr.

Location:West Haven,United States

A Little Bit of Cambridge

Our flight didn't leave until 5:40pm so we took in a little bit more of Cambridge. Peterhouse is the oldest college but had what I thought was the best chapel windows. I wouldn't compare them to King's College Chapel whose windows were simply massive. But Peterhouse's were beautifully painted with the richest, purest reds and golds. The images still sit in my mind. We also visited Pembroke where we found a statue of Pitt and need to find out if he is the same William Pitt of Pennsylvania. We are at Heathrow now. Some thoughts on the trip.

1. One month later I still want to live here. I admire the civility of everyone and the order of things. And enough of the colonized have come home to roost that even the food is interesting.
2. It was reenforced today that Americans are crass and rude when we got on the Avis transport bus with a couple who undoubtedly were from NY. He ignored the queue rule and pushed passed us onto the bus. He refused to move his arm out of the aisle causing me to bump his wife. He groused and snarled for the entire trip to the airport. He departed the bus without consideration of his wife. At the terminal elevator, he got on first with his luggage cart and immediately started pushing the close door button before anyone else could board.
3. The best meal was the grouse at York Arms. Also, it doubled as the funniest meal because we were alone in this Michelin starred restaurant. How often can that happen?
4. The best hotel was the Caldonian in Edinburg, a huge suite with a perfect view of the castle.
5. The most transforming moments were the drive through the Grampian Mountains in Scotland.
6. The most beautiful man made sight was King's College Chapel.
7. The weirdest thing was the 1am drunk intruder in Oxford.

Shades of Venice and Eel Pie

Bridge of Sighs, The River Cam at St. John's College

St John's College has a bridge over The Cam that resembles the Bridge of Sighs, or so it is said. The college is set deep in toward the Backs, and one passes through arcade after arcade and court after court traversing it. The Backs is an expanse of green that edges the Cam and offers some of the best views of the colleges. Before leaving for Ely, we visited the Round Church, built along the idea of Jerusalem's Holy Sepelchre. It's very small with powerful columns. There was a nice 20 minute video on the history of Cambridge and made frequent note of the many accomplished graduates mainly Isaac Newton, John Harvard,

The trip to Ely was a short 15 miles. The name Ely came to be from the fishing of eels in the area. Ely was once an island surrounded by fens. The fens have been drained (we passed a windmill) but eel pie is still served. Ely Cathedral could be seen across the fens as we approached. It is called the Ship of the Fens. It is asymmetrical. The north west transept was demolished when it began to show signs of instability. The central tower collapsed in 1322 due to one massive supporting column giving way. It had unknowingly been built on sandstone. The tower foot was enlarged and the current octagonal tower built in its place. We took a tour of the tower guided by a charming gentleman I would guess was in his 70s and spritely led us up the 170 steps. We got the bird's eye view of both the interior transepts and nave and the country around Ely. We were able to see Cambridge. It reminded me of our rooftop excursion on the Milan Duomo. It leaves me speechless when I try to comprehend how men were able to build these massive structures without machinery. Pictures at Flickr.

Cambridge

King's College Chapel is a wonderful formation of late Gothic English architecture. It is extremely perpendicular. As a chapel your eyes are not pulled to side aisles or transepts, instead they keep sweeping up the columns and across the delicate fan vaulting. Consider these dimensions: 289' long (300 make a football field), 40' wide (6 2/3 Waynes) and 80' high (an 8 story building). The ante-chapel walls are heavily decorated,with heraldic carvings of the Tudors. Dragons, hounds, roses, crowns, and more reside here without any religious accompaniment. The rood screen was a gift of Henry VIII and has his and Anne Boleyn's initials, which helps date the screen between 1533 and 1536. Beyond the rood and through the choir stalls the front of the chapel is devoid of wall carvings. Beneath the great east window is Reuben's The Adoration of the Magi.
From the Chapel we walked to the Fitzwilliams Museum which has a strong showing of Greek, Roman and Egyptian holdings as well as Italian Renaissance, Pre-Raphaelite, and French 19th century.
Lunch was at Dojo, a noodle place where we had rice curry. Berry, berry good.
More photos at Flickr

Peterborough and Cambridge

We are on the final stages of our trip spending the last 3 days in Cambridge. It is nice to book end the trip with Oxford and Cambridge, two eminent English speaking universities. On our way to Cambridge from Lincoln we stopped in Peterborough to visit St Peter's Cathedral. It is a fine example of Norman architecture with English Gothic adaptations. Three massive arches that grace the west front are unprecedented in Gothic architecture. There was a resemblance to Notre Dame de Paris for me, although certainly not on the same scale. The single story ambulatory was added last and is a beautiful example of fan vaulting.
Getting to our hotel in Cambridge proved to be problematic. The gps took us down a quite narrow, no not narrow, quite teeny impassable ally. Naive as we were we continued following her advice until passage was no longer possible. Ah, shades of Sicily! I jumped out of the car and directed the reversing of our route until we could turn around. We drove around the route about 3 times until we determined a possible alternative to Little St. Mary's Lane and ventured down it. Worming our way through throngs of people on the road we did arrive at the hotel at last. We spent the next 3 hours doing our regular walking down every street we came across. At one point we came across an impressive slow procession of robed children and adults led by a priest carrying a large scepter to Kings Chapel.
More photos at Flickr.

Lincoln

Both of us are a bit funky today. Fortunately the drive to Lincoln was a short 1.5 hours. Rather than going to the hotel we went directly to the Cathedral. It is an impressive site, set high up above all the city. In the medieval period it was reputedly the tallest building in the world. It has gone through many stages from Norman to present day Gothic as it was struck by fires and even an earthquake along the way. There is a road that leads from the main pedestrian shopping area to the Cathedral.  The name is Steep Hill so called because of the extreme grade.  A hand rail is available and vehicles banned.  Despite our frail conditions we managed both down and back up.  There was a stop along the way at Grays Tea Shop, however.
Our hotel is in a nice setting adjacent to the Brayford Pool, a naturally formed lake from the River Witham. Kayakers have been rowing past and there are barge restaurants. We ate on the Barge Restaurant mostly choosing it because it was spitting distance from the hotel. More photos at Flickr.

Light a Candle For Me

York Minster

This is not my picture but it does help illustrate the beauty of York. I have been stricken with what's most politely described as gastroenteritis and taken no pictures today. I did manage to drag myself out of bed and go to the Cathedral Tour we purchased yesterday. After, I immediately returned to bed and slept through the day. The tour wasn't up to the standards of Durham. But the guide was enthusiastic and knowledgeable about the building. Most notable in the building was the absence of destruction from either Henry VIII or Cromwell. The large windows were intact and painted with a gray tint. The church has burned at least twice. The roof is wooden. The stone used is a sandstone which turns pink when exposed to high heat. There are pink markings on the columns witnessing the fires.

Durham and York

Before leaving Durham, we returned for a more in depth look at the Cathedral. A tour was just beginning, and we took advantage. What a great guide we had. He was a retired physics teacher who was also a Friend of the Cathedral. He was so clear and detailed in his description of both the history of the area and the Cathedral. He spent 2 hours with us. One of the best parts was seeing the tomb of Bede the Venerable.
We arrived in York mid afternoon. York has the most extensive remaining walls, called bars, of any English city. We entered through the Micklegate Bar. Our hotel is located directly across York Castle and a close walk to the Minster. The walk is through a great old city. Huge slates and cobblestones cover the area and make for small plazas and pedestrian streets. Boutiques, pubs, restaurants line the streets. York Minster, pictured above, is the largest Gothic Cathedral in Northern Europe. We stayed for even song and will return tomorrow for a guided tour. A few pictures are at Flickr.

St Andrews and Durham

St Andrews Golf Club

The above is for all my golfing friends. I thought fondly of you today as we gazed upon the links. If it had been a Sunday, we would be free to walk the links. The Old Club was open only to members which squelched our plans to have lunch there. Instead, we went to the University Museum and St. Mary's College chapel before hitting the road for Durham.
The road to Durham hugs the coast of the North Sea for much of the trip. The road is high above the sea and allows for views of distant coastlines. You can also see barley fields and grazing sheep directly below the road.
Our hotel is a riot. If I were going to design a brothel, it would look exactly like The Gadds Townhouse. It was hard to find the reception desk in the purple light cast by the multifaceted chandelier. But we did find it just beyond the purple round couch. Every inch of the place is covered in velvet, tassels, damask, chandeliers. The best? Our room has a glass shower that partitions the bed from the rest of the bath. You must see it to understand it.

The Gadds Townhouse, Our Room

Yes, that is a velvet curtain hanging across the shower. But it was a good location to the Cathedral where we walked in time for even song. We will return tomorrow for a more extensive look.
More photos at Flickr

Through the Grampians

After breakfast at Cordhu House we said good bye to Norman, who gave us directions for St Andrews saying, "it's a scenic drive." The drive was through the Grampian Mountains, and 'twas a glorious ride indeed. The mountains are mostly devoid of trees and covered with heather. There are large areas cleared of heather and we wondered why. That is the patchwork appearance seen in the photos. At one point we came upon about a dozen men on the mountain side snapping and flapping small flags. Of course we panicked thinking it was some sort of terrorist warning system or a kidnapping ring trying to divert our attention. A few miles on we stopped at a roadside cafe where I chatted it up with some geriatric bikers. They (and the old Scots woman at the next table) gave me the low down on all things Grampian. Seems the heather is burned in controlled areas each year. The grouse go into the old heather to nest. When the young are ready to feed the burned areas have sprouted new grow for them. The flag wavers were chasing the grouse from the old heather for shooting.
We're on the North Sea now at St Andrews, where the 3rd oldest English speaking university is located. It is also the home of golf. The sport has been played here since the 1400s. We can see the St Andrew Links from our hotel room. We walked the 3 main streets down to the Cathedral and back up to the Castle. I don't think St Andrews is as architecturally significant as Oxford, but it seems to have a great character all it's own. More photos at Flickr