Waitangi and the Maori

The Maori were a fierce people and it shows in the performances we saw today.  We spent most of the day at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds which abut Paihia where we are staying. They are beautiful grounds with deep forests and vegetation as well as a fine overlook of the Bay. The early afternoon we took a tour that introduced us to a bit of history.  The Maori discovered and eventually settled in the Bay of Islands some 700 years ago.  Assuredly they came from Polynesia but perhaps even earlier from Taiwan.  At some point they developed a warrior culture which was, of course, predominantly male dominant.  When Captain Cook came in 1769 and later in the 18 century the whalers, relations were amicable. But by 1840 the British pretty much controlled things and coerced a treaty that to this day is contentious.  There was an English treaty and a translated Maori treaty that was interpreted differently.  Unclear to the Maori were trade and land sale restrictions that led to social upheaval and war.   By the beginning of the 20th century the Maori began to recover from decades of conflict and disease.  Today they are the sole proprietors of Waitangi.  It was a moving experience to watch the performances and hear them speak.  We were not allowed video in the meeting house where 4 women and 4 men performed dance, sang and played games.

The Hangi Pit

That evening we enjoyed another performance and a Hangi dinner.  Hangi is a traditional New Zealand method of cooking food in a pit over with lava rock.  The demonstration and revealing of our meal in the pit reminded me of the New England tradition of a clam bake.  We dined outside and chatted up with a couple from Australia who gave us tips on Sydney. 

PS  Many of the whalers who landed in Russell were from Nantucket. See pictures and video at flickr.

Ferry ‘cross the Waikari

Our Digs from the Beach and the Beach from Our Digs

We left Russell yesterday for Piahia, which is only across the Pamare Bay.  One can see Russell from here.  The advantage to staying here a few days is much easier access to sites in the Northland.  Our apartment is perched, and I mean perched upon a cliff directly up from the Bay.  We had a heart stopping experience getting here.  The GPS first lead us down a vertical road with 180 degree turns.  We got to a point where I was out of the car looking to see if the road continued.  And, it did but the next turn was impossible to make.  So, making a 12 point turn and back to the top of the road, I trekked to a nearby house, yelled from the front yard so as not to frighten the owners, and got better directions.  It turns out the GPS was taking us to the owner’s house, and that final turn was a foot path to the beach.  Memories of Sicily where the GPS took us to a staircase.

The apartment is beautifully appointed with grand views.  We could actually walk the beach to town which is around the point seen in the photo above. Town is not as quaint as Russell but has more restaurants, hotels, and shops.  It appears to be more of a vacation destination than a place with summer homes like Russell.

Today we explored the area by going to two waterfalls.  Because of all the recent rains they are full and roaring.  But once you’ve seen Niagara Falls everything else falls short (sorry).  I took a walk on the beach which as unusual to me oddly colored cliffs and boulders massed with oysters.

Tonight we had a Valentine’s dinner at Provenir.  It was pre fixe beginning at 7pm and ending at 10pm.  There were 7 courses, all elegantly presented and paired with a wine.  From oyster saviche and fried grouper to lamb and chocolate mouse, we stuffed ourselves.
Pictures at flickr.

Hole in the Rock

Bay of Islands, New Zealand

The weather broke on our last full day in Russell to provide us the opportunity to take a beautiful tour through the islands.  The highlight was a visit to The Hole in the Rock.  The more romantic description would be the Maori name of Motu Kokako. For the Maori it is historically associated with a range of sacred activities. According to Wikipedia it is probably the most important island in the Bay in conservation terms being in near pristine condition.  But most importantly for our tour guide was motoring through that hole for which the island gains its commercial name.  Personally, I was a bit skeptical. But make it through we did.  Along the way to the Hole we were escorted by a pod of bottle nosed dolphins including a new born.  Heading back to Russell we stopped at one of the more developed islands for a less than memorable lunch.  But, it did give us the time to finally put our toes in the South Pacific.  (Now I can’t stop singing “I’m Gonna Wash That Girl Right Outta My Hair”).

Upon returning we visited with John and Janette, the owners of our rental.  They live above us in the terraced home, and have a fantastic yard and view of the harbor.  John treated us to grilled mussels (yes, those giant ones) and rose wine.  John and Janette are originally from Liverpool but live here 6 months of the year and Australia 6 months.  Sitting on their deck we saw a Kiwi.  No, not really.  That is a joke.  It was a Weka.  But Janette said she let’s other visitors believe they are seeing a Kiwi just to make them happy.  We, knew the Weka from our trip to Flagstaff Hill.
You can see long videos and pictures at flickr.

Omata Estate Vineyard

Wayne at Omata Estate Vineyard

It was another very rainy and cloudy day.  But we put on our galoshes and drove out to the Omata Estate Vineyard.  As we took off, the rain broke and Wayne braved the narrow, winding and very steep drive on the “wrong side of the road”. The vineyard describes themselves as a boutique vineyard.  The Omata kitchen offers a lunch and a tasting.  The wood-fired pizza we had was excellent.  The tasting consisted of 5 varietals of wines: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Shiraz, Port, and a rose.  I had thought the tasting included a tour, but the wine is not processed on site.  

The Duke of Marlboro Restaurant

This evening we dined at The Duke of Marlboro Hotel and Restaurant.  The facility sits on the first piece of land sold to a European, an ex convict. The hotel began in 1827 as an unlicensed grog shop.  Today the much expanded Duke has been refurbished and offers nice dining.  

Our day ended with a glimpse of the sun as it set beneath the clouds. See more photos of the vineyard and Marlboro at flickr.

Getting to Know Russell

Russell from Flagstaff Hill Historic Reserve

The walk from our apartment to the village center is about 5 minutes.  We took that walk back to the Gables for lunch.  We had the same rather unfriendly waiter.  I thought that was just his unlikable personality until a table of young, attractive women came in.  He couldn’t smile enough, joke enough or pay enough attention to them.  Despite him it was a lovely lunch of mussels.  The biggest, fattest mussels I have ever had.

Mussels in Context

After lunch we took the Russell bus tour.  Our driver pointed out historic buildings in the village, gave us a bit of history, and then took us up to Flagstaff Hill Historic Reserve.  There are two paths, one of which leads to the famous flag pole on Flagstaff Hill. The Maori, Hōne Heke and his cohorts, cut the first four flagstaffs down in objection to British sovereignty which they believed was not honoring the Treaty by placing restrictions on trade and land acquisitions.  All of this resulted in the Northland wars and the sacking of Russell in 1845. Today the flagstaff stands and the New Zealand flag flies.

Sundial at Flagstaff 

The other opposite path leads up to the lower summit of the hill and sports a large sundial with a mosaic base. The views are almost a 360 degree view of the Pacific and the Bay. 
Photos of the day are at flickr.

Good Bye Auckland/Hello Russell

Wayne in Fryeberg Square, Auckland

Thursday, our last day full day in Auckland, we returned to the harbor docks for lunch and then back to the apartment to pack.  We will be back in 2 weeks when we join with the Road Scholar tour.  They will take us to places yet visited in Auckland.

Happy on our Deck

Friday morning we checked out of The Magnificent Metropolis (I just can’t stop saying that.), picked up our rental car and hit the road in pouring rain.  It was a straight road to Opua where we took the vehicle ferry to Russell and the Bay of Islands.  Russell is not an island but to take the road there is “the long way around the barn”  as my mother would have said.  Russell is a very small village that became known as The Hell Hole of the Pacific.  When the Europeans landed here with whaling in mind, and the convicts escaped from ships headed to Australia, all hell broke out with brothels and grog sellers.  It took the Franciscans and a treaty with Britain to straighten things out.  Today it is a holiday spot where cruise ships dock and visitors from all over have summer homes. Our hosts, Jennette and John, are very nice.  The house is located up a very steep incline, but has a funicular to carry the bags. Tonight we ate at The Gables.  Built in 1847 it has continuously operated as a restaurant.  We ate outside with the gulls.  See more of them at flickr.

Dining in the Clouds

Parnell Rose Garden

Parnell is a suburb or Auckland.  But much like Boston suburbs, it seemed to be a part of Auckland proper.  An 8 minute Uber ride took us to the main drag where we ate at Everest Dine, a nice Indian restaurant, and perused the many galleries and shops where Wayne bought me a piece of Maori jewelry. From there we walked down to the Parnell Rose Garden with its many mature trees and heritage roses.  The park sits along the water with views of Waitematā Harbor.

Orbit 360 Restaurant

This evening we dined at the top of Sky Tower in the revolving restaurant Orbit 360.  It was a treat to circle Auckland.  And I only spilled one glass of wine.  

Pictures of the day are at flickr.

Sky Tower and Ponsonby

Auckland Harbor from Sky Tower

Weather wise, this was the best day yet.  We took advantage of sunny skies and a clear atmosphere to visit the Sky Tower.  On the ride up we were in the elevator with 3 bungee jumpers.  One was an experienced nutcase about to do his 9th jump.  The other 2 were young people.  This young girl couldn’t stop laughing at the young man who kept grasping his heart.  We followed them into the bungee area just to watch.  

The novice bungee jumper

It was Waitangi Day, which is named after Waitangi where the treaty was signed.  A guide at the Tower compared it to our July 4th. The treaty is New Zealand’s founding document, an agreement made between the British Crown and the Maori chiefs.  All the restaurants, the Tower and the streets were busy with the holiday.  And, the harbor was full of sails.  After a lunch back at The Depot of oysters on the half shell, we took an Uber over to Ponsonby,  a hip residential area known for its shopping, dining, art galleries and Ponsonby Central, a market space. Having been to the markets in Barcelona, Valencia, Dijon and Aix, this market seemed like 

Tonight we returned to the cinema to see The Darkest Hour about Churchill’s earliest days as Prime Minister during the rescue of the English from Dunkirk.  The acting was great.  It was interesting to see the scenes that were shot in places we have been.   
Scenes of the day at flickr.

Home Fires

The Magnificent Metropolis from Albert Park

The majority of our day was spent watching the NE Patriots struggle for ring #6.  But, alas, as our friend Margaret said, “they were out coached”.  Where was Butler?????

But, the day had a pleasant ending when we climbed the mountain across the street to Albert Park. At the summit are formal flower gardens, a fountain and statues commemorating such conquerors as Queen Victoria.  Not a Maori was in sight. Beneath the park lie an extensive series of tunnels built in 1940 as an air raid shelter.  They were sealed even before the war ended and have never been reopened.  

There is a sushi train restaurant across the street from our building.  After mountain climbing we elected for this easy dining option.  I saw my first sushi train in Prague and thought, “no way man”.  Who knows how long that fish has been on the sushi train.  How wrong the unindoctrinated can be!  It was wonderful, and the host was the most interesting man? Woman? Manwoman?  Automaton? Pictures of the park and its magnificent trees can be seen at flickr.

Auckland Harbor

Waitematā Harbour

Waitematā Harbour (locally and commonly referred to as Auckland Harbor) is the entrance to the northern and eastern side of Auckland from the Pacific Ocean.  Auckland is described as an isthmus and has the shallower Manukau Harbor on the west and southern side of the city.  It is Auckland Harbor where the large cruise ships and yachts dock.   There are several wharves one of which, Princes Wharf, has been redeveloped into a public space with restaurants, a Hilton Hotel, and shops. The buildings here are designed to look like ocean liners.  Complaints from the city with some of the venues, i.e. Hilton, charge that public access is too frequently denied.  Hilton claims they are protecting the area from drug dealers. (I guess big pharma is trying to set up business there.)  Whereas the access restrictions seem to apply when private functions are in progress. Another contentious project is a proposal to build a wharf to accommodate the Americas Cup.  Opponents fear the harbor will be compromised.  UIKeyInputDownArrow

The harbor is straight down the hill from our apartment.  We took the 20 minute walk down for lunch, and found an area bustling with cruisers.  My first discovery was a burger is lamb, not beef.  The restaurants we saw on Princes Wharf had the “hurry up and serve me tourist” in mind.  We walked further along the water front where a former Americas Cup boat with its most impressive keel is mounted and then across a draw bridge where we saw some other pretty impressive boats. A big crowd had gathered to watch three rather muscular guys having fun diving, cannon balling and belly flopping into the Viaduct.  Over the draw bridge the area became more resident apparent with kids in a play area and food trucks.  At the very end we found the 1% again.  Docked were some yachts the size of an apartment complex.  Chief among them was Senses owned by Larry Page.

View from the Viaduct

Tonight we went to the local cinema to see The Shape of Water.  I gave it 5 stars for excellent story telling, beautiful cinematography with a consistent tone and atmosphere, and top notch acting.  If you have a chance before the Oscars, go.  

Photos of the day are at flickr.

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City of Sails

Sunrise, Auckland

I asked Wayne how he would describe the feel of Auckland. He said, “youthful, exuberant, casual.”  I agree.  Even the mortar and brick feel that way with restaurants that seem to spring up in every open space, highrises under construction and new roads everywhere.  A strong Asian influence is evident with sushi bars on every corner.  There is an abundance of laughter among groups, smiles grace every face that greets us, and niceties are in regular use.

Sky Tower

We ate lunch at the foot of the Sky Tower, Auckland’s answer to the Seattle Space Needle.  Today scattered showers came and went, and we opted for a visit to the nearby Auckland Art Gallery, saving the top of the Tower for a sunny day. The Gallery holds a mixture of New Zealand artists, European art and contemporary exhibitions.  It is tiny in comparison to European and US museums we have visited.  The building was recently redeveloped and has received 17 architectural and 6 design-related awards.

You can see pictures at flickr.

Up, Up in the Air

Auckland Harbor from The Metropolis

Yesterday (or was it the day before yesterday) I felt like Tom Hanks in The Terminal, forever trapped in LAX.  But, airborn we did become finally and stayed such for 15 hours.  We were fortunate enough to be in an exit row with plenty of leg room, unfortunate to be next to the bathrooms where people gathered to chat and stretch.  So, sleep was sporadic.  

View from The Metropolis. Lower right corner is houka land where we had pizza.

We disembarked to a sunny warm Auckland, a nice transport to town, and a lovely 26th floor apartment in The Metropolis.  The location is convenient to restaurants, parks and the harbor.  There are millions of young people (ok thousands) in the area. Auckland University and the University of Auckland are nearby.  Smoking the houka seems to be a favorite pastime for them. All the open air restaurants serve the houka at tables where it is shared around.  

It is brutally as steep here as San Francisco.  We trekked up and down for 30 minutes to the local market, Countdown,  then later realized the same market was a 3 minute walk the other direction. Exhausted from jet lag and mountain climbing, we ate pizza and inhaled second hand houka smoke before retiring early.

The very nice park and wonderful trees adjacent to our apartment.

On the Road Again

San Diego Skyline

We left San Diego with some regret in our hearts.  When visiting here, we are always tempted to sell everything and move.  Then we remember there are other places like Italy, Japan, Russia, Alaska.....just calling our names.  Today we have a long day’s journey into day after tomorrow.  I think!  We left San Diego at 11:30 am on Wed Jan 31 and will arrive in Auckland, NZ on Friday Feb 2.  Those of you who have crossed the International Dateline understand.  It’s difficult for me to keep this straight.  Although it is Wednesday here, it is already Thursday in Auckland where our reservation requires advanced notice for airport pick up on Friday.  Added to the travel ordeal is our 11 hour layover in LAX.  Rather than sitting in congested wait areas and listening to intercom announcements for 11 hours, we bit the bullet and bought a day pass for the AA Admiral Lounge.  I highly recommend spending extended airport time with the 1%.  Waiters circle constantly asking if they could serve you.  All food and drink is gratis.  There are showers, a beautiful bar area.  And, you could hear a pin drop.  We’ll check back in here tomorrow from the souther hemisphere.  Or is that day after tomorrow?

AA Admiral Lounge 

Old Town

Olde Town Selfie

UIKEYINPUTDOWNARROW Old Town San Diego founded in 1769 was California’s first settlement with only a mission and a fort. Some of the original buildings remain.  But for the most part it’s a tourist destination with some history but mostly ticky tacky shops and medium grade restaurants.  The best part are the huge and varied cacti.   We tried the tacos and found our IB Street tacos to still be the best beyond compare.  

Tonight was the best sunset yet.  A few more pictures are at flickr.

USS Midway

USS Midway Flight Deck

 We spent the day down at the San Diego Navy Pier where the cruise ships dock, the ferry runs to Coronado Island, the harbor cruises depart and the really, really, really big USS Midway is docked.  On board the Midway one is free to roam through out the hanger and the flight deck as well as quarters below deck.  There are dozens of docents around to answer questions. They were interesting to talk to and reminded me of my Uncle Carlton and Aunt Juanita, docents at the Marine Museum. San Diego is where the Top Gun Navy pilots train.  One docent told us that a sequel to the Top Gun movie again starring Tom Cruise is being filmed.  The docents are convinced that Tom will retire after that sequel and come to the Midway to be a docent.

The control area of the ship requires a tour, which we took with a docent who described how the ship operates.  What a complicated and necessarily coordinated set of actions required to run an aircraft
carrier.  They could take off and land an aircraft every 45 seconds.  I was surprised at the variety of aircraft, too.  The Midway served during the Korean and Vietnam actions and was retired in 1992.

ART sculpture on Imperial Beach

The best tacos in the world

See more picture of the USS Midway at flickr

Balboa Park

Selfie, Balboa Park

We spent this 80 degree day at Balboa Park.  We couldn’t stop smiling!  Balboa Park is an urban masterpiece of museums, theaters, open space, restaurants, and the San Diego Zoo.  

1200 acres practically in the center of San Diego have been set aside for residents and visitors to mingle.  Buskers performed here and there; Girl Scouts were selling cookies; non-profits were promoting good will; a drumming group was practicing; everyone was just chillin’ California style. These were only a few of the very civic, inclusive activities that abounded.  We visited the San Diego Museum of Art and focused on a a show of modern Latin American art from one man’s collection. Art was followed up with a charcuterie platter in a lovely open air restaurant.
You may see photos of the day at flickr.

Well, You Say It’s Your Birthday

UIKEYINPUTDOWNARROW

Sunset, Imperial Beach

One of our favorite things about Imperial Beach are the sunsets.  Every night is a different show of color.  We are still waiting for the green flash, though.  I particularly wonder at the silver light on the water. 

Tonight Phil and Kathy invited us to dinner at their home.  San Diego is very hilly, and their home sits high above Olde Town where they have an expansive view of the harbor and downtown.  It was Phil’s birthday and included a group of their friends who had not previously met one another.  We were an interesting group of 3 scientists, an engineer, 2 artists, a psychiatrist, a school superintendent and a 14 year old.  Kathy prepared 2 fabulous paella, one meat and one seafood.  She also made ice cream.  I now know my next birthday present request.  We tried to analyze the psyche of the country in this Trump era.  No conclusions or remedies were found.  So then we just had more wine.

San Diego Bay

San Diego Meet Up

Coronado Hotel, Coronado Island

We started our day with a drive through Coronado Island, over the Coronado Bridge and into San Diego.  Coronado Island is not an island.  It is connected to Imperial Beach with an isthmus.  It is a pleasing way to get to San Diego.  And the view of the bridge from the island as well as the drive over it is breath taking.  Our final destination was the Fashion Valley Mall and the Apple store.  We needed a device we thought could play our iPad movies on the tv.  Lunch was had there at a place called Stacks where one uses an iPad to choose the basic entree. An image of that entree appears, then one “drags” images of extras onto that choice.  For example, if one chooses a burger, one can then drag pictures of cheese, lettuce, etc onto that burger.  We needed to call the waiter over 3 times for instruction.  The resulting food was very good, though.  Plus, all the waiters had washboard abdomens.

Tonight we had dinner with Phil and Kathy at Au Revoir, a San Diego French bistro.  Food was great, company wonderful, French waiter delightful.  We shared stories of family, recent travels and local politics.

PS The Apple device would not work to display anything provided by Comcast.
&*^%*^%@$%#% Comcast.

View of the Pacific from Condo. It’s like being on a ship.

Imperial Beach Condo 

Coronado Bridge

First, Imperial Beach

As we take off for two months in New Zealand and Australia it is 20* in Wareham. We are looking forward to a stop in sunny San Diego for a breather and time Kathy, Phil and Lola.  It will be good to wriggle our toes in the Pacific, shake off the ice of New England and drink Margaritas with the family before the arduous 36 hour trip. 

We arrived in San Diego at midnight our time but 9 pm here.  For a brief time we though we would spend midnight in Philly.  The Boston flight had mechanical trouble delaying our departure by an hour and a half.  When we landed in Philly we had 15 minutes to get off the plane, change terminals, and board our flight.  Thank god I can still run.  And, credit to the airlines, our luggage made it too.  We are in the same condo of 2 years ago in Imperial Beach, a cool community about 15 miles south of San Diego and about 1 mile from Mexico.  It’s comfortable and fun returning to this little funky community.  It’s a blend of Mexican Americans (who are the friendliest people), surfers, a few (few?) old hippies, some rich folks, and vacationer sorts like us. No building along the beach is higher than 4 stories.  And, there is amply open space and access to the beach.  

Imperial Beach.  Midnight moon over the Pacific

This morning we awoke to a chill in the air.  It’s predicted to be in the low 60’s for 2 days.  We aren’t complaining.  The sound of the Pacific surf, the sight of early morning surfers and the thought of lunch time tacos were enough to shake off any chill.  Today has been spent shopping for some staples and recuperating from our 12 hours of travel.  Oh, and eating street tacos. 

View from Condo looking toward San Diego

View from Condo looking toward Mexico

Tijuana from the front of the condo.

Do You Know the Way to San Diego

Seville and the Road to Lisbon

Wayne and John at the 

John and Kathy Lima drove to Seville from Lisbon yesterday.  They have been spending the winter in Lisbon since January, and offered to pick up us and take us to Lisbon from where we will fly home.  We went to the Abades Triana for dinner.  As yesterday's lunch, the presentation and service for exceeded the food.  But we had fun walking there and back.  Kathy and John recalled places they had stayed in the past.  This morning we packed up and headed for Lisbon.  John took us through the Algarve area, which is beautiful.  We stopped in Sesimbra for lunch.  Sesimbra is an ocean side village whose main industry is tourism and fishing.  The tourists go for the beach.  We went for the octopus.  

A short drive from there landed us at the Lima's apartment.  It is very nice, comfortable and homey.  There is a great view of a plaza where various activities can be enjoyed from women dancing to men practicing Tai Chi and kiosks selling goods.  Across the plaza is a hill covered in colorful buildings and the Castle sitting atop.  

Wayne and Kathy admire Watson's Work

We set off to explore that little hill with its very steep, narrow roads.  Our first discovery was the wall photographs of Camilla Watson. She uses a method that lets her develop photographs onto wood of people who lived in the area.  They are hung along the streets.  What a wonderful way to remember and honor the people of the neighborhood.  

Wayne in the Pantheon Dome

Further on our walk we visited several churches, rich with tiles and the Pantheon.  Originally the Church of Santa Engracia, it was converted in 1916 into a Pantheon where Portuguese personalites are entombed.  

Dinner tonight was at an Italian restaurant on the Rua Augusta, a pedestrian way with restaurants cheek to jowl.  After dinner we walked down to the river where live music was playing.  

Pictures of our glorious day at flickr.