Fontane e Carciofi

The Turtle Fountain

Yesterday may have been Church day, but today the fountain rules.  The Turtle Fountain is is the Jewish Ghetto just a short walk across the Tiber.  The Jewish population is Rome is likely the oldest in the world continuously existing since 161.  As it goes with Jews, things weren't always pleasant.  Conditions in the Ghetto beginning when Pope Paul IV walled off the area were horrendous. The area suffered flooding,  all rights were revoked and living conditions were appalling.  Today the area is home to the Rome Synagogue,  the Turtle Fountain, and the Portico d'Ottavia, which are ruins about 20' below street level.  It was here that we sought out Nonna Betta, the premier restaurant to have fried Jewish artichokes.  'tis the season for them.  However,  Nonna was closed and the place next door where we ate was not all that good.  Service and wine were as always, above average.  But the artichokes were over-cooked and oily.  

After lunch we headed to the Piazza Navona for a look at the fountains, particularly the Four Rivers.  This very notable and famous fountain was designed by Bernini, our favorite Baroque sculptor.  The day was beautiful with full sun and temps in the 60s.  We sat, contemplating and drawing.  While here we entered St Agnes Church (sorry no photos allowed).  Agnes was another virgin, beheaded for her purity and devotion to Christianity.  Poor thing was only 12, an age where one should stick to virginity.  

Dinner tonight was at Endo at 21.  This is a very popular place.  Last night we were in an outside line of about 40 or 50 people where seating allowed for 30 at the most.  We broke line and made reservations for this evening.  The tables are packed cheek to jowl in the tiny area.  We sat shoulder to shoulder with 5 more.  Fettuccine with sausage and ribs was a delight.  We also tried the fried artichoke again, this time with delicious results.  

Fountains and more are here.