Back in the US, Back in the US, Back in the USA

At FCO, Rome

It is a 9 hour flight from Rome to New York City.  I was surprised by that having mostly flown home from Paris or London which is only about 7 hours to Boston.  We got home around midnight last evening.  It was a long 14 hour trip.  But, not too arduous as there were no lines or hold ups.  In Rome the Americans were separated out for security and check in.  I don’t know why.  But there were so few Americans that things moved quickly.  We had our temperature taken with an iPad before we were allowed to enter the security area.  We had booked business first class (why economize when you may not be here in a month. LOL). The service was great, comfort was excellent and the food was restaurant level along with all the wine you wanted.  At JFK the exit was delayed beyond normal.  I was standing where  I could see the door.  The stewardess were looking out the window at a line of official appearing people.  They were chatting back and forth in Italian with concerned looks on their faces.  Finally, the door was opened and one official person spoke to the captain.  We were told to return to our seats and informed we could leave one person at a time. There, on the gang plank we had our temperature taken.  If it was 100.4 or greater you were pulled aside.  We were the first people off, so I don’t know if anyone fit that category.  Wayne passed with flying colors.  I, next, continued to fail several attempts.  On the fourth attempt, I passed. Whew!  Wayne was already plotting how to stash me in a hotel, fly to Boston, rent a car, and return to rescue me.  Having passed the Covid-19 airport test, we had a 5 hour layover at JFK, which we spent in the Delta Sky Lounge with free food and drink.  This is a highly recommended way to reduce the stress of flying.  At last we got on the plane to Boston, landed at 9pm where the agent said we were the first plane to land since 7:30.  Rented a car at Hertz where the clerk said it was a terrible time with their business.  

Masked Agents at Alitalia

Beautiful Sky and NYC skyline from JFK

It does feel good to be home not only in terms of safety and assurance, but just to have our life style back.  As much as I love travel, the accommodations are never as nice as what you have set in your own home. We also feel completely normal and healthy but will self-isolate for 14 days.  

Arrivederci Roma

We have lasting memories of our time here.  We've walked many miles on ancient roads.  Had funny and touching encounters.  My shoes are beginning to squeak and have a few holes.  My do-it-yourself travel hair cut is less than flattering.  We had a few road blocks to our plans and missed some great museums and churches.  But, all in all, we wouldn't have foregone the experience.  We enriched our knowledge of art, history and culture. I can now talk with my hands while graze mille rolls off my tongue.  We made great new friends through Home Away. When we travel here again, we will make a point of contacting them.  We truly find the Italians charming, friendly, helpful, funny and the loudest talkers we've ever encountered.  Wayne made one last carbonara for lunch today which we enjoyed while overlooking the Roman Forum on a beautiful sunny afternoon.  Rather than leave the apartment and risk some unforeseen and unwelcome event, we relaxed, packed and reflected upon a great if not unique vacation. The above video greeting is to our friends John and Kathy who are in Lisbon and called us earlier today with well wishes.  

In yesterday's posting I forgot to mention our encounter with the street sanitizer.  We had met up with this vehicle a few days ago.  Thinking it was just a sweeper, we stepped into a doorway to avoid the scattered debris.  Instead of debris, we were sprayed down with disinfectant.  At least we were virus proof from the waist down.  Today, as this one approached we knew to steer clear. Then, in a state of hopefulness we marched home on the wet, freshly sprayed cobblestones.  

Leaving On A Jet Plane

Pasquino, the 'talking' statue

We wanted one last visit with Pasquino, the talking statue, where we earlier posted our anonymous complaint about the yellow peril, Trump.  All but one posting was gone.  Basically that posting warned of a government that imposed drastic measures on a population.  I'm assuming it was referring to the Italian lock down of all businesses save markets and pharmacies and the stay at home edict.  The streets remain empty.  I'm surprised at the Italian compliance.  Perhaps personal experience with the virus.  Or even memories of struggling through WWII.  Is that too much of a stretch?  Apparently, US citizens are too complacent.  Florida beaches are packed with students on spring break.  

The State Departments warnings have sparked us to book a flight home rather than waiting to see if we can leave Rome on April 4 and reschedule our Lisbon flight home to Boston.  We first booked today for a Monday March 23 departure.  Then a new warning came from the State Department that asked Americans to leave Europe ASAP or risk an indefinite stay.  We rebooked for Saturday, March 21.  Now, I regularly check the airlines to make sure it is not cancelled. The old reliable institutions are no longer dependable. Things may yet worsen in the US, but I will be happy to be back in my studio and begin to prepare for spring gardening.

A good walk. 

Dolce Far Niente

Sunset Over Rome Forum

We are healthy and coping well.  Getting a bit bored and trying to figure out how to get home as things become obviously more complicated.  One issue we have had is with a booked direct flight out of Lisbon on April 6 with TAP.  Our original plan (the best laid plans????) was to fly to Lisbon on April 1.  Spend some quality time with our friends John and Kathy.  Then fly to Boston on April 6.  TAP has changed that flight tol Newark with no provided connection to Boston.  We got this April 6 business class flight with credit card points.  Now we are unable to get to Lisbon at all.  TAP will not cancel or change the flight because we booked with credit card points.  We must do it through Chase credit card.  Chase is not answering the phone nor do they have any online dispute connection to use. I'm sure eventually this will be resolved.  Our other plan to book from Rome to the US is a 16 hour flight in economy with Delta.  There is a 4 hour layover at JFK.  It is such a mess.  We had a nice long walk today. Otherwise we remain sweetly bored.  

Buon Compleanno a Wayne

Birthday Boy

Not everyone can celebrate their birthday in the Eternal City.  Usually on Wayne's birthday, cities like Chicago color the river green and Boston has a huge parade.  But today not even one pub was open in Rome.  However, friends far and near, old and new, all sent greetings. We thank you.  To my surprise, I took no pictures yesterday other than the one above.  Wayne recorded our walk to the market and found a neat graffiti.  

Wherein We Go to the Circus

Circus Maximus

There were no chariots in the Circus Maximus today.  Over 6.5 football fields in length, it stretches all the way to the far trees on the horizon.  On the left is the Palatine Hill which is closed.  We walked through the length of the Circus to the Tiber and then over into our old neighborhood of Trastevere. There, we thought of food shopping in our familiar Conad Market.  But the line was significant and we opted to go elsewhere.

Selfie on the Tiber.  Proof of our good health.

It seems that the Victor Emmanuel Monument is a geographical marker for us.  Sitting high atop the Capitoline Hill it is visible from nearly everywhere.  We often use it as a guide for heading home.  Today as we passed it on our way home, I took a picture of the palazzo which was the final home of Napoleon's mother.  She had been exiled from France after the fall of her son and lived here until her death.  If you look carefully at the palazzo on the right, you will see a projecting green covered balcony on the second floor.  It is here that she would sit and watch the activity in the piazza that fronts where the Victor Emmanuel Monument now sits. She had the balcony covered so she could sit unseen. She was of a minor Italian nobility family which probably accounts for her Italian welcome and residency.

Napoleon I's Mother's Balcony

Other pictures at flicker show our salmon colored apartment building sitting behind the Colosseum.  flickr

Hola, Que Tal

The Spanish Steps under Guard

Que tal?  Nada.  The Spanish Steps were as empty as the streets. You can see all empty street evidence on flickr.  I feel there is not much to report on other than repeating each day's sameness. But the weather is fabulously warm and sunny. Rome is beautiful. 

What I would like to comment on is the complete lack of assistance from the US Embassy in Rome. Nothing is posted to help US citizens who are in Italy other than warnings about not going to Italy. For specific Covid-19 help you are linked to an Italian site, which of course is only offered in Italian.  To acquire the self-declaration document that we need to have when leaving the apartment, we used an Italian site and then translated it into English using Google Translate.  While I read the translation on my phone, Wayne filled in the required information of the Italian copy on his iPad.  We were advised to have the document in Italian to enable the police to read it.  Why are these instructions not on the Embassy site?  Why is the translated document not there? Why when I called for assistance a week ago was I told, "there is nothing we can do for you."  The office staff was greatly reduced on that call date, March 11.  The ambassador is a big time GOP contributor and a fundraising leader for Trump's 2016 campaign.  It's time the US started appointing ambassadors based on competency and not donations to either party.   A very few photos at flickr.

Take Me To The River

Castel Sant'Angelo

We are taking long walks for fun and with the intent to eventually find a market and pick up a few items.  We went into a pharmacy today to restock our Tylenol.  There was a red tape line in front of the pharmaceutical counter that we were not to pass.  The pharmacist came over wearing her mask and looked at my Tylenol picture on the phone.  She then returned with a comparable product.  The supermarkets have no such red tape line.  Everyone cooperatively just keeps the 1 meter distance in the line.  But the poor checker has no option.  Every merchant is wearing a mask.  We haven't observed anyone sneezing or coughing.  As we left the market there were a few children running and laughing in the street.  We still see the odd jogger and tourist.  

The streets are so empty that I've noticed buildings and view points previously obliterated by the throngs of pedestrians one had to constantly maneuver around.  Only a short time ago I was laughing about the Italian way of 'winning' the battle of the sidewalk. Now only occasionally do we cross paths with another.  Further along our walk, we came to the West Bank of the Tiber up river from any previous walks we had taken.  Across the Tiber we could see some impressive buildings in the district known as the Prati, a neighborhood much more modern than the historic area with wide boulevards, upscale shopping and a social scene. 

The evening sunset from the apartment was captivating.  I couldn't stop taking pictures and video which you can see at flickr.

  

I Declare! I'm Just Going to the Market!

The One Meter Rule in Line at the Market

Wayne can write on his iPad screen as one would on paper.  We downloaded the required paper work to be on the street, filled it out and saved it as an image.  That, along with our passports should give us a pass if we are stopped.  We have declared the need to have food as our raison d'être out of the apartment.

Our major activity seems to be finding a market and buying food.  Since little else is open, we have found it somewhat entertaining.  Today's wait was longer than yesterday's.  There were more people. At one point we watched the police come by and go in the market.  Were they monitoring the required capacity?  Were they looking for cannoli?  We'll never know.  They left without incident.  Then the cardboard recycling truck came by.  My what a load of cardboard that store had to be loaded and compacted  So, you can tell that life here is, well, slow.  But I think the Italians are coping better than what I hear is happening in the states.  First of all, there is plenty of toilet paper on the shelves.  I didn't even see anyone fighting for rolls.  

A little ravioli and some Netflix rounded out our day.  A few pictures of empty streets are at flickr.   Also a video of cardboard compacting.  Not something you will ever see at the Sundance Film Festival. 

Trains and Automobiles but NO PLANES

View of Rome from our Apartment

Most importantly everyone should know that tossing a coin in the Trevi fountain to guarantee a return to Rome, actually works.  This morning we packed our belongings and took the empty Leonardo Express train from the airport to the Roma Termini.  We are now pretty familiar with the areas and roads in central Rome. So arriving at the Termini did not leave us wondering which way to go or where we were.  We grab the first taxi in a line of at least 30 others, showed her the address on the phone and took off for the apartment.   Because of our familiarity with the area I noticed the taxi was taking an odd route.  But, I thought, maybe driving and one way streets make it different than walking.  However, she then drove past the Colosseum and then returned to circle it twice.  At this point I had turned on my gps to track her and point to the apartment address.  She tried to drop us at the Colosseum.  I ask her to point to the apartment; suddenly she couldn't speak English.  This was the moment when my Girl Scout kick-ass personality emerged.  Wayne and I both began to accuse her of things not to be mentioned here.  She again started driving and eventually found the apartment.  We're not sure if she really didn't know how to get there or was just trying to jack up the fare.  A lot of heated exchanges in Italian and English ensued in which we offered to pay less and she said no.  We persevered, got our bags, paid what we wanted, and left as she yelled fanculo at us.  Recognizing this I returned the insult. 

Our Living Room Complete with Netflix and Amazon Prime

Nicole, our apartment manager, gave us instructions on how to access the apartment.  We have a doorman, and we apparently have Amazon delivery based on packages at the desk. The apartment is lovely, large and overlooks the Rome Forum and Colosseum.  Riccardo, the 2nd apartment manager, arrived to acquaint us with the apartment and collect some cash.  He rode his motorcycle around to find us a nearby supermarket and texted the location.  It was good to be outside walking.  At the market we waited in a short line to be allowed access. As one shopper left, the next in line entered. The density of shoppers must be kept so person to person contact is at 1 meter.  But the shelves were stocked, and we bought all we could carry.  No one was hoarding toilet paper.  Must be the bidet thing. We settled into a nice night of Netflix tv and prosciutto sandwiches.  Pics at flickr.

Uh Oh!

Train Ride to FCO Airport

As our friend Kathy said, each time she sent an update about the situation regarding flights in and out of Italy, Uh Oh.   After a lovely ride through the Tuscany region, we arrived on an almost empty train at the almost empty airport.  Still not thinking that was a bad sign, we walked the short distance to our hotel, checked in and began the process of choosing our seats to Lisbon.  Uh Oh!  The flight is canceled.  This discovery was very surprising to me as I had requested texts and app messaging for any changes from TAP.  I had received nothing, nada.  We walked back to the airport to see what could be done.  Now the vacant airport had a more dire impression.  TAP had one window with one agent available.  Leading to that window was a very crazy, twisting line of about 100 people with their luggage.  We stood there for about an hour with little movement.  Finally another agent came down the line explaining that any and all flights into Portugal were canceled and could not be rescheduled.  Uh Oh!  

I called the US Embassy asking for advice and help.  None was to be offered.  I was told over and over as I asked questions, "there is nothing we can do for you. Call the French and Swiss embassies to see if their borders are open.  Then take a train there and find a flight out."  Uh Oh!  Disgusted by this, we returned to the hotel and took advantage of happy hour to sooth our bruised souls.  Not to make light of this, we did decide to simply find a place in Rome for the duration.  We arranged for a lovely apartment overlooking the Colosseum and Forum with the same managers we had in Trastevere. Tomorrow we will go there and be good Italian tourists.  There are some pictures illustrating the vacant spaces at flickr.    

Getting Out of Dodge

Balcony at Via Corso 2

If you look carefully in the upper left corner of this picture, you will see Brunelleschi's dome.  The building next door is under renovation and the staging obscures half of it.  We took this final shot on our balcony for a remembrance as we head out of Florence.  The situation has become untenable here for vacationers. Residents are asked to stay indoors. Supermarkets are closed week-ends.  Restaurants must close by 6pm and keep customers a meter apart.  If you are familiar with Italian dining customs, you will find this amusing.  That is, if anything about this can be found amusing.  I feel a great deal of sympathy for the Italians.  We have had wonderful experiences with them. So many of the businesses rely upon tourism.  This will be an economic calamity for them.  Our tour with the apartment owner, Piero, was cancelled.  Both he and the manager, Raffaella, urged us to leave Italy.  She arranged our taxi and is coming by tomorrow with masks.  The Siena and Bologna apartment rentals are cancelled by agreement with the owners. 

We cooperated and stayed indoors today plotting our way out of Italy.  We discovered that TAP had changed our April 1 departure to April 2 and our departure city from Florence to Bologna.  Their website and telephone numbers led to dead ends.  We eventually got through to the service we booked with, and it was agreed those changes warranted a cancellation/refund.  We will need to wait 6-8 weeks to see approval for that.  As the operator said, "There are a lot of cancellations now."  When we attempted to book a new flight out of Florence, the price was over $2000.  I believe a bit of gouging is going on here. We found a more reasonable rate out of Rome.  So, tomorrow we will take the train to Rome, stay overnight and depart on Thursday for Lisbon.  There, our dear friends John and Kathy will host us while we determine our next move.  It's 72 there today, and we think that's terrific.  

Observations of two visitors.

   An 8 hour telephone call on hold to request help is ridiculous.

   We will never use Kyak again!

A Slow News Day

Florence, Italy with Medici Coat of Arms

The Medici family emblem consists of six spheres mounted around a shield. It can be found on any palazzo, church or monument to which the Medici had connections or that was financed using Medici money. They are omnipresent. It's unclear what the building above is or was during the time of the Medici. The origin or meaning of the spheres is unknown. Speculations include representations of pharmaceutical pills or cupping glasses, coins from the money changers guild, or even dents in the shield of a heroic cavalier ancestor.  We spotted this emblem at the beginning of our walk to the Piazzale Michelangelo. The Piazzale is located Otrarno and up the hill behind the Boboli Gardens we visited on Saturday. We thought this would be a good walk and a nice substitute for closed museums. Almost immediately it began to rain, and we decided to postpone our visit.  Instead, we shopped and went home.  Below are pictures taken along our walk illustrating the devastating impact of Covid-19 on Italy.  These are areas where normally one would need to work through the crowds.

Piazza Santa Maria Novella

A Pre-Triage tent outside the Florence hospital set up for Covid-19 testing.

And Then There Were None,

Bah Humbug

no museums, no concerts, no churches. We were surprised to find the above notice outside the Palazzo Vecchio, which explained why earlier in the day the San Marco Museum was closed. The Italian government has decreed that all museums, concerts and events will be closed until April 4.  The north is completely locked down.  Fortunately, the owner of our rental in Bologna reimbursed us the down payment.  We will not be going.  Instead, we will extend our stay in Siena. 

It was a beautiful sunny day so we took advantage and walked the narrow streets, sat in the expansive piazzas, and window shopped.  This city drips with history and art found both inside and outside of museums.  Most of it is somehow related to the Medici family.  San Marco is where Cosimo invested much money to repair the convent and build the cloisters.  Two well-known Dominicans lived here, Savanarola and Fra Angelica.  It is here the beautiful Fran Angelica frescos are. I am very sorry to be missing these.

Still unaware of the decree, we attempted to enter San Lorenzo, where located are the tombs of Medici built by Michelangelo. Memories of our past visit will have to suffice here.  But in the Piazza of San Lorenzo, was a monument to Giovanni delle Bandi Nere commissioned by his son Cosimo I.  I digress here to state that the Medici family loves the names Cosimo, Giovanni, Lorenzo and Piero.  And, they aren't cooperative enough to signify them with I, II, III, etc.  No, they employ some form of surnames that just confuses the hell out of me.  

Finally, spotting the decree, we knew the gig was up, gave up on museums and strolled the quaint narrow streets, sat in the sunny piazzas, bought a bottle of wine and headed home where I noticed our neighbors' name plates.  Hmmmm.

  A few pictures are at flickr.  

Observations of two visitors.
    Strolling in Florence is not bad. 

    

Oltroarno and the Pitti Palace

Pitti Palace from the Boboli Gardens

The Pitti Palace was commissioned by Luca Pitti in the mid 1400s.  He was a wealthy Florentine banker who backed Cosimo di Medici until he didn't.  It is rumored he ordered the Palace to have a courtyard big enough to hold the entire Medici Palace and windows larger that the Medici doors.  He eventually went broke and the palace remained unfinished until Cosimo I's wife Eleanor bought, enlarged and moved into it.  It was at this point the famous Vasari Corridor was built to give Cosimo I secret and safe passage between the Uffizi and home.  The place is massive.  It looks more like a huge train station than a home, and in fact is longer than 2 football fields.  Added to this are the 111 acres of Boboli Gardens rising up the hill behind it.  

The last linear Medici gave the Pitti, the Uffizi and all the contents to Florence on the condition that no part of it could be removed from Florence.  The amount of wealth exhibited in both places is beyond my comprehension.  Thinking about the era when these massive structures with elaborate decor were built amazes me.  While the paintings alone are of the most esteemed, the rooms of the Pitti are saturated with plaster ceilings and frescoes that also astound.  Words simply fail me.  

To appreciate the view of Florence from the Boboli Gardens we had to climb a fairly steep stepped path to the crest.  From there we had a panoramic view of Florence and the distant Appenine Mountains.  These gardens set the standard and inspiration for future European gardens such as the Versailles Gardens. 

As we were leaving we saw a sign pointing to the grotto.  Curious, we walked down to find the most interesting structure, an artificial grotto.  It was added onto the end of the Vasari Corridor by Duke Francesco Medici. Embedded in what appears to be dripping concrete are mother-of-pearl, sea shells and stones.  Beautiful and twisted body sculptures emerge from the faux stalactites, 4 of them copies of the originals by Michelangelo.  The information sign asked that we imagine couples secretly meeting her for a rendezvous.  It is also featured in Dan Brown's Inferno. 

At the end of the day we stopped in an il Papiro, or paper store. There are many of them around Florence that sell marbleized papers, cards, journals, etc.  Because we were the only ones in the shop we got a demonstration of how the paper is marbleized.  That led to purchasing 2 blank journals.  Lots of lavish ceiling pics at flickr.

Observations of two visitors.

   Sometimes when there are no tourists one gets special attention.

    

Uffizi

The Ponte Vecchio and the Arno from the Uffizi Gallery

We are in Florence; it is the birthplace of the Renaissance; it was home to the Medici; it was where Michelangelo was raised.  Today all these confluences came together for us. We visited the Uffizi in Florence, which was built by Cosimo Medici as an administrative building, which holds works by Michelangelo whose birthday is today. The Uffizi houses one of the largest and best known collections of works of the Italian Renaissance.  Many, many of which came from the Medici collection.  It really takes the better part of a day to peruse the entire collection.  And, that is too much looking to really appreciate specific works.  There were stand outs for us that you will see in flickr.  We took a lunch break on the roof top cafeteria.  It offers great views of the Palazzo Vecchio in the Piazza Signoria.  

Again, there was not a line of visitors waiting to enter the gallery nor were there significant visitors in the gallery rooms.  This was a great situation for us, offering long viewing times with pieces normally swamped by people.  There were, of course, those people who step in front of you to take a picture and then move on. I've watched people stand in front of a magnificent painting viewing it only through their cell phone as they took several pictures. Then, without a look at the painting with their EYES, move on to the next photo opportunity.  Lots of art at flickr.

Observations of two visitors.
   Christy is beginning to talk with her hands.

Giotto's Campanile or We Climb 414 Steps

At the Mercato Centrale

You are never too far from a pig in Florence.  It is either sculpted somewhere, taxidermied in the market, or poised on your plate for enjoyment.  We hit the Central Market today.  It is one of those typical open air European markets that has everything Tuscan your pantry would need. On the first floor are all the specialty shops: the butchers, fishmongers, fruit and vegetable vendors as well as shops selling olive oils, cheese, wines and more. Check it out here.  The second floor has sections dedicated to Italian specialties to buy and dine on. YUM.

We bought some staples, dropped them at the apartment and headed for the Baptistry.  That ticket also got us into Giotto's Campanile.  The Baptistry is one of the oldest buildings in Florence, built between 1059 and 1128. It stands apart from the Duomo because in Medieval times one could not enter the church prior to baptism. We were interested in the door copies which any passerby can see, but also the interior mosaic ceiling.  Made of tiny Venetian glass, it took over a century to complete.  It is very dark inside and was difficult to fully appreciate.  

Since our ticket to the Baptistry included the Campanile, who were we to say no.  As the Baptistry, this bell tower by Giotto is free standing. It mimics the facade of the Duomo with green and pink marble. The sculptures and reliefs one sees now are copies of the originals . The originals are now in the Duomo Museum which we will see tomorrow.  Inside are 414 steps that lead to an observation deck.  There are three levels with platforms for resting and viewing, thank god.  The walk was worth the life threatening effort for the panoramic views including spotting our apartment.  I can safely say we were the oldest climbers but not necessarily hardest puffers. 

To end the day we strolled over the Ponte Vecchio for a beautiful view of the Arno.  Pictures galore at flickr.

Observations of two visitors.

   Some parents need a slap when they bring a coughing child to climb 414 steps in a time            of plague.

Santa Croce

Santa Croce Cloisters

We spent nearly the entire day in the Santa Croce Basilica.  Known as the Florentine Pantheon, it is the burial place of many significant persons.  Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante and Rossini have beautiful tombs along the nave walls, and hundreds of others are buried under foot.  The church has significant frescos by Giotto and Gaddi in its chapels. These had all been white washed over in the 18th century, but subsequently uncovered.  Yea!  The complex includes three cloisters including one by Brunelleschi, he of the famous dome.  In the first cloister, pictured above, is the entrance to the Pazzi Chapel.  This, too, was designed and partially completed by Brunelleschi.  It was never finished because the Pazzi, ambitious and vicious folk, murdered one Medici and attempted to murder the other.  They were subsequently executed, and the family banished from Florence.  

The Florence leather school is connected to the church.  We looked but did not buy.  Tiny pill boxes were 30 Euro.  And, although the leather jackets felt like silk, I'm long past buying a 800 Euro fashion statement.

Today it was clearly visible that the Coronavirus has taken hold of tourism.  There were absolutely no lines of tourists and practically no one in the piazzas.  We had lunch at a nearby trattoria along with a tour group from Mexico.  That was it.  No one else in the place.  

We walked back through Piazza Signoria to find the execution spot of Savanarola, which we did.  And, then had our first Florentine steak.  Huge!  Rare!  We ate it all.  There are many, many pictures of Santa Croce at flickr where we try our best to capture the vast space and beauty of the place.   

Observations of two visitors.

    Whitewashing over a 14th century fresco is never a good idea.

     There is never enough Henry Moore.  (see flickr)

Churches

    Basilica of Santa Croce

     

     

Here Comes the Rain Again....

Via Corso 2, Our Apartment Door

Look at the size of that front door.  It gives you an idea of the height of the rooms in our apartment.  We are delighted with the elevator.  Because even though we are on the second floor, it would be an unwelcome climb of about 60 steps per floor. Oh, plus you know that the first floor in Europe is our 2nd floor.  

The rain has continued today and will for two more days.  It is also cooler here than Rome. Because of the rain, we postponed our walking tour with Pierro until the sun returns.  Meanwhile, we fought the elements and visited the Florence Cathedral.  To our surprise all of the seats are roped off.  I was disappointed because I like to sit and draw in the churches.  I also wondered about those who actually want to worship and can't sit.  The exterior of the Duomo is so beautiful with pink and green marbles.  The interior is a simple gothic design that is a relief after all the Roman Baroque.  The dome, designed and executed by Brunelleschi, was a wonder in its day and remains the largest brick dome in the world.  The overall dimensions are enormous with a length at over 500 feet.  I always use a football field to gauge these spaces, and could just imagine Tom Brady trying to move down that nave.  

We are still getting our feet wet here (ha), taking it slow.  Just a few pictures at flickr.  

Observations of two visitors.

   Sometimes a duomo can seem like Grand Central Station, with no where to sit.

Churches

    Santa Maria del Fiore

    

Bargello Museum

Bargello Museum Courtyard

It rained a lot today putting a damper on sight seeing.  Plus, it is Sunday, and many things are closed.  But the magnificence of the historic center we are in cannot be lessened by a little rain. The pink and green marbles of the Duomo, the open piazzas filled with sculptures, the traffic free zones, all provide the eye with enjoyment.  The Bargello Museum, open today, is an 8 minute walk from our apartment, and holds some of the most notable statuary of the Renaissance.  It was once the headquarters for the police chief, a barracks and prison.  It is the oldest public building in Florence and holds the largest Italian collection of gothic and Renaissance sculptures some of which you may see here. Most notable among the collection is Donatello's David, Michaelangelo's Baccus and Brutus and many Giambologna's.  

Observations of two visitors.
    People will walk under a covered walkway with their large umbrellas opened.