Saturday, February 15, 2020

Barberinis and Berninis

Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Alberton by Bernini
Our day started in church, the Chiesa di San Francesco a Ripa Grande, which was a block from our apartment.  Somehow we missed this very impressive Franciscan church which has the Bernini sculpture of Ludovica Alberton.  Ludovica is buried here, was beatified for her work with the poor, and had the capability to elevate herself while apparently in a state of ecstasy.  We found this sculpture to be very similar to Bernini's Ecstasy of St Teresa in the facial features and the breast grabbing.  I'm envious of the Romans who can simply walk into any of the hundreds of churches and contemplate upon all this amazing art.  

Fontana del Api by Bernini
The majority of our time today was spent in the Palazzo Barberini, the companion to the Palazzo Corsini. The Barberini houses the main national collection of older paintings in Rome. The collection includes works by Caravaggio, Lippi, and yes, Bernini among others.  The Barberini were one of those ruling families that commanded Pope and Cardinal positions.  They were a very wealthy minor noble family who made their money in Florence in the grain, wool and textiles. Their influence is easy to spot due to their iconic symbol of three bees. The palazzo faces the Barberini Piazza where we had earlier seen the Fontana of the Tritone.  We walk down to the piazza to see a small Bernini fountain we had missed, the Fontana del Api.  You got it.  The Fountain of the Bees.  This fountain was incidentally added to reduce the water pressure of the Fontana Tritone which was soaking people who walked passed. 

M5S Protestors
We had a nice waiter for our lunch who explained with great facial expression about all the street protestors we had encountered. Members of Italy's Five Star Movement (M5S) were protesting the Senate's proposed restoration of annuities for former senators. The M5S is a what we would describe as progressive yet holds to an anti-immigrant stance.  
More pics at Flickr

Observations of two visitors.
    Surprisingly few cats are around.
    Some galleries are better organized that others.

Fontains
    Fontana del Api
    Fontana del Tritones (again)
    Trevi Fontana

Churches
    Chiesa di San Francisco