Tuesday, February 11, 2020

A Good Walk Ending in a Good Aperitivo

Via Luciano Manara
Today we explored our neighbor and surrounding areas in Trastevere.  Trastevere literally means beyond the Tiber.  The earliest settlement here was the Etruscans while regal Rome was across the Tiber. By the time of the Republic, Trastevere had become part of Rome.  It was a center for a Jewish community and fishermen.  During the Imperial period the prominent Romans began to move here and build villas.  Gentrification has been around a long time.  Today Trastevere continues to maintain its character of narrow winding cobblestoned streets lined by ancient houses.  It's fun and challenging to share these narrow ways with automobiles.  Pedestrians really do rule here.  Graffiti is everywhere, but once accustomed to it, it seems to belong.  It has some of the best restaurants in Rome.  At night the people gather in the piazzas to drink, laugh and listen to music all in a friendly, safe environment.

Our walk took us pass two American universities, John Cabot and The American University, which helps explain the many English speaking young Americans we see here.  We walked further on along the Tiber to find the Palazzo Corsini, one of the late Baroque Villas built here.  We will return tomorrow to check out the art collection.

Poet Trilussa Monument
On our way back we discovered a monument to the poet Trilussa, an anagram of his surname, Carlo Alberto Salustri.  He was quite the character preferring to hang out in the streets and taverns rather than with the literary circles  He has his own piazza and fountain at the foot of the Sisto Bridge. 

Aperol Spritz at Grazie and Graziella
We ended our night with aperitivo, better know to us as happy hour.  It begins around 6pm and is meant to enhance your appetite with light fare accompanying the drinks, and prepare you for the 9pm dinner.  Needless to say we had our aperitif but also calamari and pizza which we called dinner.  I had the traditional Aperol Spritz which is concocted from Aperol, Prosecco, club soda and slices of fresh orange.  The Aperol gives the drink bitter notes.  

A further look at Trastevere at Flickr.

Observations of two visitors.
    There are a lot of beggars at the popular spots, some very aggressive, 
     
Fountains
    Fontana dell'Acqua Paola in Piazza Trilussa, aka Fontana di Ponte Sisto