Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Bernini's Favorite Spot

Sant'Andrea della Quirinale 
Today was a lot of street sight-seeing and some good pizza.  We started with lunch at Dar Poeta, a pizza parlour recommended by many sources as the best pizza in Trastevere.  We had about a 10 minute wait for a packed restaurant.  The parlour is named after the poet, G.G. Belli, and one of his poems is written on the wall. Dar Poeta translates "At the Poet's". They offer a leavened pizza as well as another pretty full menu.  What we've noticed with Roman pizza in general is that the tomato sauce we are so accustomed to in the US is a rarity.  To get a piquant taste one needs to order a spicy sausage topping.  If you ask for a red pizza you get tomato slices baked in.  


Castor and Pollux at Piazza Quirinale

The Piazza Quirinale, near our destination, has a nice fountain with Castor and Pollux and their horses.  It is also where the Italian President lives.  Guardie! Guardie!

The Sant'Andrea della Quirinale is a small church designed by Bernini.  We have learned that it was his favorite creation.  He would go there and sit for hours contemplating his design.  It is a simple oval with acres of marble and soaring dome upon dome.  We were lucky enough to hear a visiting group of teenagers sing.  We think they were from Detroit based on their gear.  

The other church nearby, a Borromini and Bernini's supposed rival, was unfortunately closed.   Sant'Andrea sits in a tight space on the intersection of 2 roads and is considered a masterpiece of Baroque architecture.  All four corners sport fountains.  Borromini designed St Agnes in Agone in Piazza Navona.  A fun legend has it that Bernini designed his fountain of Four Rivers which faces St Agnes so that two of his allegorical in figures that face the church express horror.  It's not true but fun to consider.

Almost home, I finally walked down into the Cat Sanctuary at the Torre Argentina.  The subterranean area is a refuge for rescued abandoned cats.  Pictures at Flickr

Observations of two visitors.
     Walking in Rome is a contact sport.
      Sometimes the way from one road to another entails beaucoup stairs.  And they are       always up.

Churches
     Sant'Andrea al Quirinale
     San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane