Marble, Marble Everywhere

Wayne Outside the Baths of Diocletian

It was a full day of walking and visiting three museums and one church.  We've gotten better at realizing the proximity of places we wish to visit and clumping them within one trek.  The three museums are part of the National Museums of Rome.  Saturday's visit of Altemps was the first visit of the four museums.  

Our day started with the Crypt Balbi which stands on the ruins of the the Theater of Balbus.  The ruins are visible deep down inside the museum.  This area of Rome along the Tiber is known as the Field of Mars where military exercises took place (even today the military will use this term for the area where drills and parades are conducted). Fires, floods and earthquakes eventually did in the theater.

From here we returned to the Piazzo Republica where the Baths of Diocletian can be visited.  These were the largest imperial baths in Rome covering some 32 acres.  Most Romans tried to bathe daily not only for cleanliness but as a means of socializing.  It's hard to imagine the original structure from the ruins.  But what clearly remains is Michelangelo's cloister where expressive face sculptures hang over the doors.  In the center of the cloister is a fountain surrounded by four cypresses. It is said that Michelangelo planted these.  

The final museum, Palazzo Massimo is across the street from the Baths.  Wayne was excited to see Boxer at Rest.  Unfortunately, it was under restoration, could be seen but not appreciated.  The Discobolus was there and made up for the Boxer's hospitalization. It is in the most perfect condition of all the Roman copies.

Boxer at Rest, Palazzo Massimo

I found this the best museum of the day.  The frescos and mosaics were captivating and in excellent condition,  The best frescos were from the villa of Livia, wife of Caesar Augustus and mother of subsequent rulers including Nero.  Look her up,  She's pretty savvy, pretty nasty, too.

The Basilica of St. Peter's Chains was on our way home.  This is where Michelangelo's Moses is (and also the chains).  I didn't realize until the visit that this sculpture is only a small part of a tomb planned for Pope Julius II. The initial design was massive and intended for the Basilica of St Peter.  A lot of pictures and some music videos are at flickr.

Observations of two visitors

    62 steps from one museum floor to another is too much for a 70 year old.  

    3 floor of 62 steps each can be a killer.

    Walking in Rome is a contact sport.

    

Churches

    St Peter's in Chains

  

Fountains

    Fontana of the Naiads (2nd time)