Wordsworth

We started out today to see Beatrix Potter's home, but found that we needed to take a ferry across Lake Windermere to reach it. That would be okay except that my inquires of those locals in the car line told me the ferry only took 6 cars at a time; we were number 21 with no ferry in sight after a 10 minute wait. Instead, we opted to go to our second agenda item, Dove Cottage, home of William Wordsworth. Wordsworth lived in the cottage in Grasmere for 8 years. His sister, wife, sister-in-law, 3 children, S. T. Coleridge and another minor writer all lived in the 5 room cottage at one time. Wordsworth had seen the area when he was 14 and declared it paradise. It had always been his desire to return. It was here that he purportedly wrote his best poems. There was a very nice museum attached with many original writings and paintings of his contemporaries.
From Grasmere we drove to Keswick. It was a very hairy but stunning drive on a 6'6" road along the edge of the lake. At times the mountainside was to the other side of us; covered with huge ferns and cedars, it reminded me of northern California. The lushness and the green were tangible. Keswick was a bit more charming that Windermere. But still no really nice galleries or antique shops. We had a pub lunch and returned to Cragwood for some R&R.More photos at Flickr.

The Lake District

We were up bright and early at 6:30. The fire alarm roused us, and as I'm trying to shut off the phone alarm, then the iPad alarm, I come to realize I better get dressed. Out in the hall I met Paul, also obviously hastily attired assuring me nothing is on fire. I left him to sort out the problem and returned for an additional 10 winks of sleep.
We breakfasted alone. There is a nice selection of art for sale in all the rooms. Carl Melegari's work caught our attention. Seems he was a miner, which you can tell feeds his work. Take a look.
The drive to the Lake District is filled with views of the dales seemingly covered by heather. At least the color appeared to be purple heather. We are staying at The Cragwood House Hotel. From the back lawn there are 2 views of Lake Windemere. The building is stone with multiple gables and leaded windows.
After checking in we drove to the towns of Windemere and Bowness. The we're filled with tourists and had a honky tonk look and feel. But we took a 45 minute cruise on the Lake. It's beauty out shown any of the tastiness of the towns. Back at our hotel, we had a wonderful dinner and will dine here again tomorrow. More photos at Flickr.

Yorkshire Arms

The York Arms

Once we packed and cleared out of Oxford, we spent the better part of the day driving to Ramsgill in Nedderdale, Harrogate, North Yorkshire. Try finding that on the GPS. Our destination was the York Arms, a Michelin starred restaurant and inn. We discovered the Arms while watching The Trip, a British comedy film about restaurants in the north of England, and put it on our agenda. The last miles of the trip were along narrow, stone-walled roads big enough for one Peugeot (our car) or 2 smart cars. Needless to say there was a lot of nail biting and breath holding.  But we did arrive unscathed.   The Inn is nestled among fields of grazing sheep, along side a bubbling brook, down from a reservoir, adjacent to a vine covered English cottage; you get my drift? We walked in past tables filled with chattering, laughing people having tea in the sunny front courtyard. The clerk showed us to a lovely room. After walking around the area a bit, we returned to the room. Wayne read, and I went out to draw the lovely vine covered English cottage. Drinks were announced for 6:30, dinner at 7:00. At cocktail hour it was so quiet we asked about the other guests. Seems we were the only guests in the inn. This made for a jolly evening filled with undivided attention from all. After a dinner of grouse, we retired to the lounge for espresso and a visitation from Chef Francis Atkins. She explained the grouse we had was locally hunted, feeding off heather, which gave it the flavor. We talked about Scotland, where she last worked, and Scotch whiskey. We got good advice about touring there. This is a day and meal that we will long remember.More photos at Flickr.

High Tea

Today was our last day in Oxford. I absolutely love the civility and order here. People really do queue up for everything. Among throngs of shoppers, They queue up at the bus stops a good 10 minutes prior to the bus' arrival. AND, then they stay in that line until all are orderly boarded. I want to live here. We did not encounter one surly, rude or curt person whether a clerk, a waitress, a porter, etc. (the intruder doesn't count). Even on the highways and byways, the drivers are courteous and considerate. I want to live here.
We spent most of the day walking around the city. We did get into University College to see the Shelly Monument. It's gated off now to prevent the students from defacing poor Shelly. Seems they like to paint his penis. And once they filled the alcove with water and goldfish. Poor fish!
We climbed to the top of the Carfax for another rooftop view of the spires. There was a nice woman who traded camera shots with us. After, we went to the Randolph Hotel for high tea. The Randolph is one of those famous Morse spots. However, it stands on its own as a very nice establishment, built in the Victorian Gothic style. After tea we revisited Magdalen College and then walked to University Park. There are very large specimen trees that we didn't recognized. We walked all the way to the Cherwell river where a beautiful scene of punters captured us. I want to live here. More photos at Flickr.

Will and Anne

Even though very little is known about Anne Hathaway outside of a few legal documents, she has been much maligned over the centuries as a shrew and a cradle snatcher. Probably, none of these characterizations are true. While she was 26 and pregnant, Shakespeare was 18 and poor and hardly a catch. We visited the house, now much enlarged, where Anne was born. The gardens were fabulous. There is a flower here, the anemone, that I'm coveting for our garden. The pink blooms, dogwood in likeness, sit on the ends of 3' stems. We strolled though a wooded path reading postings from Midsummer Night's Dream before leaving for Shakespeare's birthplace.
Shakespeare and Anne lived in the birthplace house. The Second Best Bed is here. The gardens here are lovely, too. We were amazed to be walking in the same halls as Shakespeare walked, breathed, sneezed, coughed, laughed and ......
More photos at Flickr.

Windsor, The Trout, and The Intruder

We went to the Queen's favorite week-end digs today, Windsor Castle. The castle had its beginnings with William the Conqueror who wanted to protect the Norman dominance on the outskirts of London and this strategic portion of the Thames. Thereafter it has mostly been a residence, in fact, the longest inhabitated castle in Europe.  It is an amazing piece of architecture, but not particularly interesting in terms of historically significant events...no blood and guts. The art, however, was nice to see: Rembrandt's, Van Dyke's. We came back early to Oxford for dinner at the Trout Inn, a must on our Morse was here list. It is in Lower Wolvercote north of Oxford, directly on the River Thames. Wolvercote is also where Wayne's sons attended school when he was a student at Oxford.
Oh,yes, the intruder. So, around 1 am I awoke to a lot of loud banging. Wayne said, "its just someone on the street." A couple of minutes later I awoke again and said, "someone is in the house". Big, brave, manly Wayne went downstairs, came backup stairs and said, "someone is in the house." My reaction: "What? Lock the bedroom door. No. Don't go down there. Call the police." His response, "Where are my pants?"  We both go downstairs like idiots. Passed out in the living room was a very drunk and vomiting male teenager. Wayne and I both are yelling, "Who the %.*#+~! are you? Get the **}>#>~£ out of here.". Nothing budged the retching retch. I try dialing the police with no success. Wayne is screaming in the guy's ear. I grab a tennis racket (yeah, good weapon) to hit him over the head. Then, suddenly he gets up, looks at us like we have 3 heads, and stumbles out the door without a word. Tonight we will double check the locks and make sure we have Inspector Lewis on speed dial.
See more of Windsor on Flickr. Sorry, no pics of  The Intruder.

Oxford Center, the Unfulfilled Quest

It was such a rainy day that we postponed plans to visit Anne Hathaway's home. Instead, we took the bus into the Center to look for 2 treasures, The Light of the World by William Holman Hunt at Keble College and the Shelly Memorial at University College. Alas, we were thwarted on all counts. The Keble College Chapel was under renovations and closed. University College was closed to all visitors. Not to be dissuaded we journeyed on to the Sheldonian. What? Closed for renovations?!?! Oh, you say we can climb to the cupola instead. Okay, why not. Why not indeed. First, the roof was designed by Christopher Wren, and his handiwork can be seen as one climbs into the cupola. Wow. Secondly, the best view one could hope for of the Oxford architecture is here. After lots of ogling and snapping of pics, we descended and headed for Wayne's college, Exeter. It's a small but beautiful college. We sat in the chapel for a bit and went to the door leading to Wayne's tutor, John Wilson. Later, we did some regular living, shopping for socks, having a new watch battery installed and buying some pasties for dinner at home. As we headed for the bus, torrential rains fell as the sun broke through. At the last moment the rainbow appeared.  Pics of our day.

Stonehenge and Salisbury Cathedral

I've often remarked to people who have never visited the Grand Canyon that photographs simply cannot capture the essence of the place. The vastness, the depth, the colors and the atmosphere must be experienced personally to grasp the spirit of the place. If you've been to the Grand Canyon, then you will understand what I mean when I say the same applies to Stonehenge. While the two places don't compare physically, the experience is similar. The scale of the stones seen here is under estimated. And the mystery of the who, why, and how only add to the amazement. When Wayne was here 35 years ago, his sons could climb on the stones. Today the area is cordoned off. We circumvented the site with audio guides that gave some insight into the henge origins. I sat and drew for a while. How lucky.
Salisbury is only a short drive from Stonehenge. The spire of the Cathedral rises dramatically over the horizon as one approaches. It is one of the few Cathedrals constructed in a short time and on a large close. As a result the building is one of the purest of English Gothic architecture. John Constable painted the Cathedral many times. Having seen these paintings at The Frick, The NY Met, etc. I've wanted to see the a cathedral in the same light as Constable. A bonus was seeing one of only 4 existing Magna Carta copies in the chapter house.
More photos at Flickr.

Bath and Wells

Wells Cathedral

We had a long drive through on and off rain showers to Bath to see the Roman ruins. Bath is a much larger city than I knew. There is a large pedestrian, upscale mall surrounding the Abbey and the Baths. The sun broke out and we ate lunch outside at one of the restaurants across from the Baths. It is just as fascinating to me that the Baths could be uncovered and reconstructed as it is that they ever were built to begin with. The Abbey has a unique exterior, angels climbing up a ladder on either side of the main entrance are book ended by a high relief carving of the Jesse Tree.
Wells was another 1/2 hour from Bath through narrow roads that were canopied by large trees. The Cathedral sits to one side of the town center and adjacent to the Bishop's palace. The cathedral itself, like all we've seen, is awe inspiring. Please see the photos for the best understanding.Flickr

Stratford -Upon-Avon

Wayne dining with Shakespeare at The Garrick Pub

If music be the food of love, then play on.We spent the afternoon with Viola, Olivia, Malvolio, et al at the Royal Shakespeare Co. It was a bright and sunny, crisp day suitable for a walk along the Avon. The streets were packed, but being mostly Brits they nicely queued up and gave way to the pushy Americans. So, we had no problems making our way to Shakespeare's birthplace and his grave in Holy Trinity Church as well as having lunch before the play. It was great fun watching a Shakespeare performance in Stratford. We will return later in the week to tour the birthplace home and Anne Hathaway's home.

Blenheim Palace

Blenheim Palace is the Churchill family estate. Winston Churchill was born here.  Built in the English Baroque style, it has been home to the Churchill family for over 300 years. Our guide was very good. She concentrated on the history of the family telling it through the paintings, furniture and tapestries in the rooms. Most notable sights were the furnishings that came from Versailles, the Singer Sargent painting of the 9th Duke and his wife Consuelo Vanderbilt, the C. Duran painting of Consuelo that hung nearby, and the 10 Flemish Victory Tapestries of John Churchill.  The gardens were very formal, very green and beautifully set against the River Glynne.


We returned to Oxford and the Ashmolean Museum in mid afternoon.  There is a beautiful Uccello painting, The Hunt in the Forest, here.  We later went in Blackwells Book Store (another Morse haunt) to pick up an Oxford tour book. We then returned to Summertown and had dinner at The Spice Lounge, a very good Indian restaurant.  
See more photos at Flickr

Inspector Morse, The Ashmolean, and Evensong

We have finally gotten our body clocks on UK time. After a late breakfast we headed for Oxford Center to check on our Morse tour. On our way out the door we met our neighbor, Harold. He was with Anna, his and our house keeper. She was kind enough to help us with the oven. Alas, it would not work for her either.
From the information center in Oxford, we walked down Broad St and over to Christ Church College, the most beautiful college I've yet seen. The gardens were lush and so well tended. We visited the Cathedral where there are several Burn-Jones windows. Funny story. One of the Burn -Jones windows was being cleaned and had plain glass in place of it. When the docent relayed the cleaning information to a visitor, she exclaimed, "Oh, no. You've cleaned it completely off!" You may see this
over-cleaning on Flickr.
Next on the agenda, Morse. We are Inspector Morse, Lewis and Endeavor fans. As such, Wayne is always pointing out Oxford buildings during the shows. This tour gave us the opportunity to see those spots in true time.
When at Christ Church we saw a posting for Evensong and decided to attend. After the Morse tour we had enough time to visit The Ashmolean. We went immediately the the Pre-Raphaelite Gallery. Wayne remembers when he first saw these paintings 35 years prior and fell in love with them. The collection is small and of early works.
We ended our day in Oxford back at Christ Church Cathedral for Evensong. The choir was young adolescents. The sound was quite lovely and soothing after such a long day on our feet. Back home we cooked some pasta and settled in for a little tv and reading.
To see more photos of today visit Flickr.

The Cotswolds

Wayne with his Scotch egg in Stow

Today we drove out to the Cotswolds, a very picturesque English countryside. The area is populated with small towns and villages built othat one. In the Middle Ages the wool trade made the Cotswolds prosperous. Some of this money was put into the building of churches so the area has a number of large Cotswold stone "wool churches". the first village we came to, Stow-on-Wold was having an art show in its church. We bought a small painting of the local landscape. Here we also had lunch. I had The Best Damn Fish and Chips; Wayne had a warm Scotch egg. As we drove through the countryside to the next village of Bourton-on-Water, we saw many sheep and fields upon fields of hay or wheat. Bourton-on-Water looks like it belongs in the Shire...too charming for words. A very shallow yet wide river runs through the center of the town. There were children everywhere wading and playing. I stuck my finger in for a test run and immediately withdrew it before icicles formed.
See more photos of the Cotswolds at Flickr

The Botanical Gardens, Magdalen College, The Bodleian

Wayne at the King's Arms, Oxford

Yep, we did all those things. We started the day searching Corn Market St for some electrical adapters. The street is pedestrian and has an enclosed market nearby where these poor pigs were begging for attention. From there we walked to the botanical Gardens. They were mostly interesting for the perennials and wild flowers. Across the street from the Gardens is Magdalen College. Inside is a most beautiful chapel. Among the many notable alumni are Oscar Wilde, CS Lewis, Cardinal Wolsey. Up the hill and on our way home was The Bodleian, the library for the Colleges.More photos at Flickr

Boston and Beyond

We began by being tourists on our home turf. We spent the day walking around Plymouth Harbor, visiting the Rock, looking at The Mayflower. Remembered the last time we were here with Carolyn and Ralf. Met Jeff at the house; he drove us to the bus. Arrived at Logan 5 hours early. We are EXCELLENT travelers. Really, we just rather sit there and read than kill time elsewhere. Met an interesting guy in the restaurant. He was from Cambridge, UK but living in Maine. The flight was smooth, quick and uneventful. Love British Air. Arrived Heathrow 9:00am, got the car, panicked, drove any way. Arrived at the house around noon. Left the house around 12:01pm. Strolled to Summer Town and caught the bus to Oxford Center where we walked down High St past the Sheldonian. Wayne was grinning ear to ear. Walked back to a pub, The Eagle and Child where we had the worst beer you can imagine. So close to Belgium, yet so far. There was a trivial pursuit game going on. After finishing the awful beer and stuffing myself on a burger, we caught the bus back to the house.
More photos at flickr.

The Night Before

We spent he night before our departure for the UK in Plymouth because our home exchangers had arrived and were in our house. There was the most beautiful sunset occurring as we approached the hotel. I think it is a very good omen. Tomorrow we fly to London.

Great Barrington and Tanglewood

Neighboring Picnicers at Tanglewood

It was a beautiful day in the neighborhood.  We spent it in Great Barrington, which has a different feel than the other surrounding towns.  There are far more young people, more of a hip, funky atmosphere.  We ate lunch, roamed the streets window shopping and gallery browsing.  Tonight we returned to Tanglewood for an all Wagner program.  It was thoroughly transcending.  More pictures at flickr.

Norman Rockwell and William Shakespeare

Rockwell Museum

Norman Rockwell moved to Stockbridge, MA in 1953 so that his wife could be treated at the Austen Riggs psychiatric hospital.  (side note. James Taylor was also treated there and refers to his time at Austin Riggs in the song, Fire and Rain).  Stockbridge remained Rockwell's home until his death.  He helped established a custodianship which became the Norman Rockwell Museum.  The museum is the authority on Rockwell and holds over 700 pieces of his.  We went primarily to see the current show, Howard Pyle.  Pyle was an illustrator and children's book author during the fin de siecle.  Rockwell studied and admired his works as a student.  Pyle hardly had his own style.  He would mimic styles he felt best illustrated the texts he was illustrating.  To my delight, the show included Hokusai's The Great Wave of Kanagawa.  Previously, I've seen this print only in reproduction.  There is always something new to discover in the Berkshires.
Tonight we saw The Tempest at Shakespeare and Co.  It's our only play this trip.  The production was not great.  Olympia Dukakis played Prospero and she was extremely weak.  Her voice is not suited to Shakespearean dialogue.  Physically, she didn't control the character, either.  To our delight Merritt Janson played Miranda.  We saw her last year as Rosalind in As You Like It.  It was the best portrayal of Rosalind we've ever seen.  She was equally good as Miranda.  Other principals were also noteworthy.  Kristin Wold as Ariel was charming and captivating.  More photos at flickr.

Hancock Shaker Village

Hancock Shaker Village

The United Society of Believers in Christ's Second Appearing....USBCSA....nope, no hope of an acronym there!  The Shakers are a religious sect who live communally and are amazing at invention, music, egalitarianism. The only remaining members live in a Maine commune. Since we had seen Borrowed Light at Jacob's Pillow on Sunday, we wanted to visit the Shaker Village in Hancock, MA.  It is a beautiful setting in which most of the buildings still stand in pristine condition.  The Shakers have not lived in the village since the 1960's.  We heard nice talks in the round barn and the dormitory about the structures and life in general.  The dormitory dining room had 2 interior windows, borrowed light.  

This evening we attended a Brahms Piano concert at Ozawa Hall performed by Gerhard Oppits who, over 4 evenings, is playing the complete works for piano without one piece of sheet music.  Very impressive.  We sat on the lawn this evening among the crowd that spilled out of the hall like fruit from a cornucopia.  It was beautiful to watch the interior of the hall warm as the sky cooled to evening then night.  We re-visited our discussion about LeWitt's art.  I asked why Wayne could consider the Brahms' piece art and not the LeWitt wall paintings.  More photos at flickr.

Mass MoCA

Sol LeWitt Wall Painting

Mass MoCA in No. Adams, MA is one of the largest centers for contemporary visual and performing arts in the US. It is located in a converted factory building, which offers huge display spaces. We went primarily to see the "Oh, Canada" and "Invisible Cities" shows. Fortunately, a tour of all the galleries was beginning as we arrived. It was nice to get an over view and introductions to pieces in each gallery.  We had not been to the museum since its initial opening and were pleased and surprised at the improved holdings and curatorship. The most interesting was the Sol Lewitt retrospective. Please visit this site to understand the magnitude and importance of this show. 65 artists and students spent 6 months installing the work which will be on display for 25 years. Lewitt had gifted his work to Yale University when he was dying from cancer. Yale, realizing their limited space, sought out Mass MoCA and LeWitt agreed. He visited and collaborated on the placement and configuration of the spaces prior to his death.

Sol LeWitt Wall Paintings

Of the two other shows, I liked The Mountain by Graeme Patterson in the Oh, Canada show.  My best description is art within art within art.  Patterson describes it as the first of four installations that focus on his personal experience with male bonding.  Coming in a close second was the entire Invisible Cities show, particularly Melting Pot by Miha Strukelj.  The concept is inspired by Italo Calvino's novel of the same name in which imaginary conversations take place between Marco Polo and Kubla Khan.  Polo describes his voyages and the cities to Khan.

Invisible Cities

I was so happy to have finally seen some contemporary art that can be visually exciting, provoking, evoking and accessible without extensive reading and probing to understand the artists' intents.  More photos at flickr.