Tate Modern and Mahler

Barbican Center, London Symphony Orchestra

We had a day filled with art and music.  We started at the Tate Modern which reminded me of the Boston ICA in the manner that they both offer wide glassed in spaces that overlook major bodies of water.  The Tate sits alongside the Thames and has a cafe on the 10th floor that offers a grand view of the river and the city's skyline.  To get there, we disembarked at the Blackfriars bus stop, which is the area Shakespeare's company performed indoor plays when not at the Globe. Our walk to the Tate was along the Thames in bright sunshine.

The Tate Modern was confusing to us.  It is divided into two houses, the purpose of which we still don't understand.  The space is massive and very industrial but with choppy small galleries.  What we did enjoy were some Picasso pieces, especially the Three Dancers and a gallery focused on the studio work of the artist.  This room had many portrait and self portrait pieces which were in a realistic style yet not photo realism.  Here is one example.

This evening we went to the Barbican Center to hear the London Symphony Orchestra.  The Barbican  Center is the largest multi-functional performing arts venue of its kind in Europe.  It hosts classical and contemporary music, theater (including the Royal Shakespeare Co.) film screenings and art exhibitions. Simon Rattle was in from Berlin conducting Mahler's 6th Symphony.  I think Mahler attempted to use every item that could make a sound in this piece.  It was very dramatic, bold, colorful and symphonic to the nth degree.

We purchased an Oyster card to use on busses and trains.  It is the London version of Boston's Charlie card.  When we entered the tube station and found our oyster card empty, we couldn't understand how we had used 20 pounds apiece worth of travel in 2 days.  We discovered that we were charged the maximum amount each trip because we were not using the card to exit.  Live and learn.
The day's pictures are at flickrUIKeyInputUpArrow and .

London 39* and Sunny

The Tower of London viewed as we exited the tube.

Monday we managed to take the bus to the Reykjavik airport, fly to London and then take the tube to Tower Hill where we then walked the few blocks to our VRBO.  We did all this by only asking 8 people for help and not being robbed.  I mention this because we have been robbed while enjoying European public transportation.  It can put a damper on the fun.  At any rate, the VRBO is nice enough.  The first morning I did manage to dislodge the hot water faucet from the tub.  It's hard enough to reattach a faucet knob without tools, but add to that hot water is spraying hard and fast and you've got one trying ordeal.  All is well now thanks to Wayne.

We are in a lovely area, near London Tower.  It's active with residents and shops, most importantly, based on the drip coffee I prepared first morning, Starbucks.  It is called the Minories area.  The name is derived from the former Abbey of the Minoresses of St Mary founded in 1294.  It was in the ancient parish of St Botolph and said named Church is at the top of the street.  A major bus terminal is just a few blocks away.  We have taken advantage of this very efficient and easy to use system. We think it much better than the underground as we can see all the areas of London as we travel along.

Yesterday we traveled uptown to a mall where we shopped for food and acquired a SIM card for my phone.  The population of the area was very diverse.  We smiled at all the varied peoples living side by side, bustling around shopping, working, going home.

Today we took the bus in the opposite direction to the British Museum.  The collection is a massive collection.  Of course, this collection results from decades of foreign rule by the British Empire.  The empire upon which the sun never set was able to collect and bring to London some 8 million works.  Most impressive of what we saw today were the Elgin Marbles and the Parthenon sculptures, the Rosetta Stone, the Lewis Chessmen,  the Sutton Hoo burial artifacts, and multitudes of Roman, Greek, Egyptian vases, coins and sculptures.

Wayne with an Anglo Saxon helmet from the Sutton Hoo burial site.

Elgin Marbles

More pictures at flickr. 

A Little Night Music

Thermally Heated Sidewalks and Streets

Reykjavik has no ice or snow on the roads and sidewalks. Imagine that!  No shoveling or plowing needed.   The thermal waters are used to heat the homes.  The run off water is then piped into plastic tubing inside the city's streets and sidewalks.  We walked those sidewalks today to The National Museum of Iceland which holds some 2000 objects dating from the Settlement period.  Around 870 Vikings began to arrive. Estimates of settlers ranged from 311 to 436.  To my surprise some women came on their own to settle. These Settlers, or farmers, were the chieftains that met in the Thingviller that we visited yesterday to form laws in a quasi Parliament.   There were no indigenous peoples here.  

The Harpa Concert Hall

The Harpa is relatively new having its first concert in 2011.  The multicolored glass facade is inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland.  We heard some very American music at the Harpa.  The Elektra Quintet performed a very jazzy first piece with a tenor.  The second half consisted of Gershwin and select pieces from Bernstein's West Side Story.  The tenor and a soprano provided voice.  

Tomorrow we fly to London.  To see all the pictures of our time in Iceland, link to flickr.

Hot Golden Circle

Today we took an 8 hour tour of what is known as the Golden Circle.  Since we selected the tour with a swim in a lagoon, we got to add the word Hot to our adventure.  The circle loops out of Reykjavik into the southern uplands of Iceland and back.  Our four stops were the Thingviller National Park, the Gullfoss waterfall, the geothermal area that contains the geysers, and the lagoon. It was a snowy and windy day.  Visibility was limited and the light a sleepy blue.  We were on a 25 seat van driven by "Andy" who tried his best to be funny.  It felt a bit like being in Kansas in winter.  

Pass Between the Continental Plates

Thingvellir National Park is where early Icelanders held Parliament once upon a time. Today it is where at times Game of Thrones films. It sits on the North American Tectonic plate.  Here we walked through a pass and onto the Eurasian Tectonic plate. 

The geothermal area was formed at the end of the last ice age.  The general descriptive term geyser comes from the large Icelandic Geyser.  Since Geyser has been dormant for some time now, we visited her little brother and got a show every 3-5 minutes. 

The Gullfloss is a magnificent waterfall system, not as large as Niagara Falls, but certainly as impressive.  The wind was bitingly cold as we climbed abut 50' to look down upon the system.  After this we were happy to find the warmth of the lagoon.  An hour of soaking left my core feeling toasty warm and my spirit lazily satisfied.  

Upon returning to Reykjavik we ate at the Old Icelandic Restaurant.  I was in search of a traditional lamb dish.  This I found.  It was succulent.  

Pictures at flickr.

Reykjavik

View from our hotel, Reykjavik

Well,  here we are in the land of the Vikings, a place I never dreamed of or thought I would be.  It was a most convivial beginning as we rode the Grey Line from the airport to Reykjavik. The entire bus was entertained by a local tour guide passenger who was three sheets to the wind.  Wayne was directly across the aisle from him, and misguidedly encouraged him with polite responses.  We were lectured on what not to do.  "Don't go near the water at the black beach.  I beg of you.  I beg of you.  Please, please.  I will love you forever if you don't go near the water."  "Don't go into the ice cave.  I know you want to see where Russell Crowe was naked.  But don't go.  I will love you forever if you don't go."  Later when a group of us boarded the transit van to our hotel, we were all in stitches repeating his conversation.  Every Icelander since has been just as friendly, helpful, happy and polite but with a more sober approach.

Downtown Reykjavik 

Iceland:  much less snow than I anticipated.  Just as freezing as I anticipated.  Much less dark than I anticipated.  Just as interesting as I anticipated.  Today we walked the main streets which are filled with winter wear shops.  We found the Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church which seems to stand guard over Reykjavik.  At 244' it is among the tallest structures in Iceland. It is made of concrete in a most contemporary fashion that mimics the geography of Iceland.  The interior is totally white and austere but soaring high with gothic vaulting.  Tonight we enjoyed local music and fare at Cafe Rosenberg.  Kristian Kristianson of the KK Band entertained us with some jazzy blues. See pictures at flickr

Magic Pants, Salty Water and BBQ

Book of Mormon

Provo, Utah

Yesterday we drove north to Provo past sites visited on our last cross country.  A second look at these fabulous places was still as awe inspiring as the first look. The Wasatach Mountain Range escorted us into Provo which sits surrounded by snow capped Unita Mountains.  The architecture is lovely and there is a beautiful tabernacle in the center.  We strolled around the small downtown area, past the tabernacle and considered where to eat dinner.  Place after place was closed.  We soon realized that it was Sunday and probably a city ordinance to be closed.  We did find a cafeteria on the outskirts of town and barely got served at 7pm before closing.  More photos can be see at flickr.

Today we continued on to Salt Lake for 2 days.  As we had seen The Book Of Mormon in San Diego, we felt well prepared.  However, we did not see one man dressed in black pants, white shirt, black tie.  We spent the first half of the day downtown where we toured Temple Square.  It is very impressive!  The grounds are beautiful and immaculate.  The trees and bulb flowers are blooming.  One cannot enter the Temple but can enter other buildings on the grounds such as the Tabernacle where the famous choir performs.  Salt Lake also has a very impressive library designed by Moshe Safdie, the architect of Crystal Bridges Museum.  The library has incorporated small shops and kiosks. 

Wayne at Temple Square

Later in the day we ventured out to The Great Salt Lake.  One passes vast acres of salt flats and a smelting plant on the road to the Lake.  The area seems barren despite the surrounding mountains.  As it was early in the season, no boats or activity were to be seen.  No birds either.   

Great Salt Lake

More pictures are at flickr.https://www.flickr.com/photos/minkcove/albums/72157668507197782

Navajo Nation Reservation

Navajo Nation Reservation, Grand Canyon

As we drove east out of the Grand Canyon National Park, we stopped at a few more viewing points.  We never saw a bad view, and remain awestruck.  The views became even more amazing as we traveled on.  Our destination was Provo, Utah.  To get there we had to drive east first around the Canyon and through the Navajo Nation Reservation's Western Agency.  The road hugged the edge of the Canyon to our north and offered extensive views of the desert and the eastern portion of the Grand Canyon.  

Navajo Nation Reservation Arts Sales along the Little Colorado River

We came upon a Navajo set of arts tables and stopped.  Here we found a porcelain Christmas tree ornament that was hand painted with symbols. 

Navajo Nation Reservation, The Painted Desert

 Our drive from there took us through the painted desert, by the Colorado River and into Utah.  In Utah we edged past the Grand Staircase Escalante and Bryce Canyon, beautiful areas we visited several years ago.  It was a long 8 hour day of driving.  But the sights were so lovely that we hardly noticed.  Provo is a beautiful little town that has kept its historical buildings in original shape.  What we didn't realize is that we had arrived on a Sunday, and there was nothing open in downtown.  We assumed this was a Mormon rule.  We did find a cafeteria on the edge of town.  We arrived near closing at 7pm.  When we asked for some roast beef, we were told it was put away.  HA!  Having paid full price we insisted on bringing it out.  It was not worth the argument.  Cafeterias never fail to disappoint.  

Entering Utah near Bryce Canyon

Provo, Utah

Beautiful Pictures of the Ride are at flickr

The Grand, Grand Canyon

Wayne on the South Rim

After a brief stop at Home Depot to buy screws, nuts, and bolts to shore up our duck-taped oil pan cover, we headed for the Grand Canyon. The road took us around the San Francisco Mountains, across the Coconino Plateau and deep into the Kaibab National Forest which is comprised of beautiful ponderosa pine. Our lodgings are in the park at the Yavapai Lodge in the Grand Canyon Village.  We're housed on the second (walk-up) floor in a very nice room. Despite the early season the Park is busy.  We are happy to have found a room inside the park, and able to take advantage of the shuttle bus.  As soon as we deposited our gear, we took the bus to the visitor's center and sought advise on the best course for a single day visit.  Mather's Point is behind the visitor's center.  This is where Wayne got his first view of the canyon from the South Rim.  He was awe struck.  From here and on advice from the ranger, we took the shuttle bus along the 7 mile Hermit Road view points ending at Hermit's Rest.  We walked between some of the stops along a rim path that provided views of the Colorado River.  It would be impossible for me to describe the beauty, the vastness, and the breadth taking experience of the canyon.  Pictures alone cannot do justice either.  In addition to the expansiveness, the colors of the rock layer sequences change with the light and atmosphere.  Because the canyon was incised out of a plateau and is not hidden by mountains and vegetation, one walks suddenly up to the edge and can see the the geology for miles.  The approach to the along the flat ground does not prepare one for the depth and distance of the Canyon.  The canyon floor includes rock nearly 2 billion years old.

The Colorado River

Tonight we drove out of the park to have dinner at the Grand Hotel's steak house.  A funny memory was listening to the family next to us talk about their day of horse riding and touring, then watching them all walk out bow legged and waddling.  

flickr pictures

Flagstaff, AZ on Route 66*

Prescott National Forest nearing Flagstaff, AZ

As we drove out of California and into Arizona, the views became more expansive, the land flatter and more desert-like.  We passed by Joshua Tree National Park which we had visited in 2010, crossed over the Colorado River and into Arizona. I'm beginning to feel like I can see for "Miles and Miles and Miles and Miles." Flagstaff, some 6 hour drive east of Palm Desert, was our destination.  The intention was to stay here one night in order to reach the Grand Canyon early the following day.  Then, we could take an entire day to explore the south rim, stay the night and head out again early toward Utah.

Mt. Humphreys in the San Francisco Peaks, Flagstaff, AZ

Looming over Flagstaff are the San Francisco Peaks, the largest of which is Mt. Humphreys.   We are now about 7,000' elevation and can feel it.  Just a small amount of exertion can leave me breathless.  

Flagstaff has preserved the historic downtown through which runs the historic route 66.  It was here that we found the Beaver Street Brewery and dinner.  

Wayne and Sweetness enjoy a brew at the Beaver St. Brewery

Leaving the Brewery our car loudly announce it was dragging the oil pan cover.  Seems the Jiffy Lube guy left out most of the retaining screws.  Never fear.  My Renaissance Man purchased a few screws and, voila, all fixed.  We thought the earlier duck tape solution might not hold up in the Grand Tetons.  

Mechanic Wayne securing the oil pan

Route 66 preformed by The Manhattan Transfer

More pictures at flickr

Palm Springs, CA

Moreno Valley and the Redlands

We had a quick change of plans yesterday when we discovered that our lease ended on March 31, not April 1.  Because of that we added Palm Springs as an additional stop on our way home.  This route took us through Moreno Valley and the Redlands with beautiful views of the hills and mountains of California.  As we entered Palm Springs we spotted the visitor's center and entrance to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.  The tram car rotates as it rises 2 1/2 miles along the Chino Canyon to Mt. San Jacinto State Park.  Here we had expansive views of the valley below and of Palm Springs.  

Tram Ride

Tram Ride with Palm Springs in the valley

Palm Springs viewed from Mt. San Jacinto

Following that spectacular introduction to Palm Springs we headed for our hotel and headed and headed until we realized we were in Palm Desert, not Palm Springs. Palm Desert was beautiful and we were not disappointed.  The downtown is quite swanky with an outdoor mall that would rival Rodeo Drive where we had pizza.  

A few more pictures are at flickr.

Adios Imperial Beach

Sweetness

Sweetness is very sad today because she has to pack all those winter clothes for the trip home.  She would much rather be on the beach.  Yes, tomorrow we end our stay in Imperial Beach.  It has been a very delightful and uplifting time.  We are melancholy but looking forward to the trip home.  It was wonderful to spend time with Kathy, Phil and Lola, and to see Bonnie and Duncan.  Staying for 2 months helped us to feel as if we lived in the area.  The people at the fitness center I joined we so welcoming and friendly.  Lee, our fearless leader, was attentive and shared his Sunday hikes with us.  

Imperial Beach Fitness Center, Silver Sneakers

Our days and nights were filled with the rumble of the Pacific Ocean. We finally stuck our toes in on the last day.

Wayne, Christy and the Pacific

If you have about 30 minutes to spare flickr has 60 days of recorded sunsets.

Point Loma, San Diego Serenade*

Point Loma looking across San Diego Bay

Point Loma is a seaside community of San Diego and also the peninsula that hangs out around Coronado Island and helps form San Diego Bay.   We can see the Point from our condo as a distant gray form from which giant freighters and cruise ships emerge.  It is historically important as the landing place where the first European expedition came ashore in present day California.  Loma is the Spanish word for hill, and, indeed it is quite a hill.   At 422 feet, the end point gave fabulous views of downtown San Diego, Coronado Island and even a teeny little speck of our condo and Mexico.  The winds were quite strong but warmed us as we walked up the hill to the Old Point Loma Lighthouse.  Also on the Point stands the Cabrillo National Monument.  Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo was the first European to see San Diego Bay.

Wayne on Point Loma with Downtown San Diego and San Diego Bay

There are 2 major military bases, a university, and a national cemetery which hugs both sides of the Peninsula.

Point Loma National Cemetery.

At the suggestion of a friend from my gym, we ate at Mitch's Seafood, a funky little restaurant sitting on the docks.  Since we are trying to see how many tacos we can eat in 2 months, we obviously ordered octopus tacos.  They were as good as it gets and were enhanced by a great seat overlooking the bay.  It reminded us of eating with the pelicans on the dock at Cortez Bait and Seafood in Florida.

Tacos at Mitch's Seafood, Point Loma

San Diego Serenade, Tom Waits

Mo Better Photos at Flickr

When The Swallows Return to Capistrano*

Swallow Nests

March 19th is St Joseph's Day, and the day every year that the swallows return to Capistrano.  Only...NOT.  It seems that since 2014 they have elected to fly 60 miles north to the swanky private Vellano Country Club in Chino Hills.  I guess if I could hang (pun, get it?) with Greg Norman I would, too. We discovered this abomination of tradition before leaving, but decided to go anyway to check out the Mission.  We did find some of the mud nests but aren't sure if they are manmade since that has been one attempt to persuade the feathered friends to return.  If you can zoom in on the picture above you will see those nests sans the swallows.  The second kink in the day was that we forgot it was Saturday. As such it took 2 1/2 hours in stop and go California traffic to go 80 miles.  The return trip was only tiny bit shorter.  

This Mission is one of several Franciscan sites founded by Franciscan Junipero Serra.  It houses the oldest in-use building in California, the Serra Chapel.  On the grounds are the remains of a large stone church.  Built in the late 1700s of stone with vaulted domes, the church was unlike the other Missions' adobe churches.  In 1812 the church was destroyed by an earthquake.  

Church Ruins of Mission San Juan Capistrano

The grounds are filled with beautiful flowers, and plenty of artifacts; historical information abounds in the small rooms.  Submerged oil and tanning vats were discovered recently while digging to repair a broken water main.  This discovery illustrates the extent of the Franciscans' hide tanning and tallow production. The first wine in Alta California was produced from the Mission's grapes, criolla. Until about 1850 this grape represented the entirety of California's viticulture. Despite the absence of the swallows and the horrendous traffic, we had a great day. Anything we do here is fun because, well.. it is so damn nice in Southern California!!!

Beautiful Ground of Mission San Juan Capistrano

A few more pictures are on flickr.

When the Swallows Return to Capistrano by The Ink Spots

Mo Better Mole*

Pollo Mole at Cantina Mayahuel, San Diego

Yesterday's New Bedford Standard Times ran a story in their food section about San Diego.  The food section journalist was visiting here and reported on wonderful mole she had in University Heights.  Since we were headed into town for another Balboa Park visit, we hit Cantina Mayahuel for lunch.  We opted to try both of their moles over a chicken cutlet.  The darker sauce is smoky with chocolate undertones.  The red sauce is fiery hot.  We both blended the 2 after a bit. I think homemade mole is in our future.  I told the waiter about the news article; turns out his girl friend is from Falmouth.  The outdoor patio was sunny and music filled the air. 

Cantina Mayahuel

Our third visit to Balboa park proved as lovely as the prior two.  This trip's goal was to see the Natural History Museum's show Birds as Art: The Avian Photography of Arthur Morris.  The show was perfectly place in the 3rd floor gallery with glass ceiling.  Please take a look at Morris' vibrant, textured photographs.  

Balboa Park, Natural History Museum, Arthur Morris Birds as Art

Before leaving the park, we took time to stroll through and around the Botanical Building with its lagoon and lilly pond.  As always, the koi delighted me.  I must mention also that there are always buskers and other street performers filling the air with music and laughter.  At the lagoon a gentleman was masterfully playing a classical guitar piece.  

Botanical Building, Balboa Park

Over-shadowing the Koi, Balboa Park Botanical Building Lilly Pond

*La Cumbia Del Mole performed by Lila Downs

Anza Borrego Desert*

Anza Borrego Desert

Today we drove northeast to visit Borrego Springs and the Anza Borrego Desert State Park.  The desert is part of the larger Colorado Desert of southern California, which is part of the even larger Sonoran Desert where the beautiful saguaro cactus grow. Anza Borrego is named for an 18th century Spanish explorer, Juan Bautista de Anza, and for the Spanish word borrego meaning big horn sheep, which live here. It was about a 2 hour drive through the interesting and beautiful Cleveland Forest which began as pretty rocky landscape comprised mostly of chaparral. As we entered the Cuyamaca Mountains within the Forest, we noticed many, many large dead trees; dead so long they were silver and shiny. We later discovered the area was the site of the largest wild fire in California history, the 2003 Cedar Fire. This fire burned 280,000 acres and killed 15 people. 

In the midst of the Cuyamaca Mountains and the Cedar Fire area stands a little gold rush town, Julian. Amazingly, it survived the fire.  We had heard of the Julian pies, so naturally had to stop.  Practically all of the buildings were built ca 1870 during the gold rush.  At some point a Johnny Appleseed bought in and planted a wagon load of apple trees.  And, thus, the famous Julian apple pie was born.  

Julian, CA featuring our pie stop cafe.

The approach to Borrego Springs is breath-taking with steep roads that overlook deep and wide valleys.  The town was surprisingly populated and green with palm trees.  It was 85 degrees and sunny.  The road to the Park headquarters passes the Galleta Meadows where there are 130 metal sculptures inspired by creatures that roamed the desert millions of years ago.  The artist, Richard Breceda, was commissioned by Denis Avery, the land owner, to create the sculptures.  

Galleta Meadows Mastodon

The spring flowers are blooming the in the desert.  They are sometimes subtle, small, low to the ground and not immediately evidenced.  Others are large and bold such as the indigo shrub and the ocotillo cactus.  On our drive back we passed through the Laguna Mountains where we reached an altitude of 4500+ feet.  At one point it seemed we were on a mesa where rivers, large trees a lake and green, green grass grew.  All of here has been a geological delight. 

See more pictures at flickr.https://www.flickr.com/photos/minkcove/albums/72157666007275985

A Horse with no Name by America
Galleta Meadows Sculptures

Purple Haze*

Imperial Beach, CA

Today has been one of dramatic weather creating large waves, high winds, hail and rain.  Everyone at my fitness center was happy that rain was here.  The storm would kick up, blowing furniture around. Then, within minutes the skies would clear and the winds would subside just to begin all over again. This revolving weather has gone on all day.  Enjoy the videos and pictures.  

And, finally, the end of the day.

* Purple Haze by Jimmy Hendrix