Iguaza Falls, Argentina Day 7

 

Rodents, Crows and Falls

I spent the last few months walking 5 miles a day in order to be in good shape for this tour.  What I should have done was readjust my sleeping patterns.  We have had to be ready to roll no later that 6:30 am every day.  Today luggage had to be ready to roll by 6:30 which meant I had to roll by 6am.  My regular roll time is 8am.  But, it is all worth it.  We rolled across the Tancredo Neves Bridge over the Iguacu River and into Argentina. The falls are still beautiful but the crowds are huge here.  We had to option of taking an upper trail and lower trail.  We skipped the lower trail just because of the heat (90*) and the crowds.  Everyone was very considerate but you could hardly move.  After lunch we headed to the airport for our flight to Buenos Aires where we will be staying at the Alvear Palace Hotel. 

The hotel is another Belmond.  They are all a bit different but all elegant.  Buenos Aires has a very European feel as does the hotel.  Dinner tonight offered the best tenderloin so far.  We sat with Jeannette and Pete.  It was great food, good conversation.  Pictures at Flickr

Iguaza Falls Day 6

 

The Very Wet LaGues

We became one with the Falls today. The approximately 1 mile walk took us up close to some of the 275 drops. Hopefully my pictures will give a tiny understanding of the magnificence.  The group coalesced at the wonder of it all.  Each and everyone exclaimed they had never seen anything to challenge the Falls.  There is one walkway the stretches over a fall.  This was so much fun (and a bit damp lol)

Next, we visited the Bird Rescue Sanctuary.  Most of these birds are born in the sanctuary and will never be released. The parents were rescued from poachers. The Park is one of the largest bird parks in Latin America, whose main job is the conservation of the 120 species of birds of the Atlantic Forest in some danger of extinction.

This was becoming quite a full morning as we returned to the Falls, took a funicular down to the river and boarded a jet boat.  We traveled for miles upstream to feel the spray and hear the thunderous water at the vase of the falls.  THEN the boat went UNDER the falls at Devil's Throat.  The spray was so strong that I couldn't open my eyes.  But, what was there to see expect spray?  What fun!!!

Tonight we had a special private dinner at Casa do Chef.  Fabio, the chef, had been head chef at out hotel before deciding to create his own restaurant.  The dining room is located in his home with one side completely open to the enclosed garden.  He creates dishes using the gastronomic history of the diverse regions of Brazil.  At each serving he explains the origin of the dish and the ingredients. It reminded me very much of our Aboriginal lunch in Australia. An extra treat was his flute playing.  Also, the very cute children appeared.  Pictures at flickr.

Iguaza Falls Day 5

 

Iguaza Falls

Our bags were packed, and we were ready for the next adventure.  Following lunch at the Copacabana Palace, we flew to Iguaca where the magnificent and very large Iguaza Falls are.  Our first stop was for a 15 minute helicopter ride over the falls.  I was lucky enough to be in the front next to the pilot where I could see all around and take some half decent videos/photos.  The falls form the border between Brazil and Argentina and can be seen from both countries.  According to our guide Gaston, the views and access from Brazil are the better because most of the falls are on the Argentina side.  The waterfall systems in both countries make up the largest waterfall system in the world.  

Belmond Hotel Das Cataratas is our home for the next 2 nights.  Cataratas means Waterfalls in English. It has a very different feel from the Copacabana Palace.  I feels more like a lodge from early days.  It is elegant with outdoor access to restaurants, the bar, shops.  It overlooks the falls.  The weather is cooler. Enjoy the photos at flickr.

Rio de Janeiro Day 4

 

Rio from Christ the Redeemer

Today was a little trip to the clouds, a little Samba, and a few steps.  Christ the Redeemer at some point was selected to be one of the modern Seven Wonders of the World.  We don't really know who voted on that.  We were never asked.  However, it is a wonder. Quite an international collaboration, it was created by French-Polish sculptor Paul Landowski/ built by Brazilian engineer Heitor da Silva Costa in collaboration with French engineer Albert Caquot, and face sculpted by Romanian Gheorghe Leonida. The head is 12 feet high; the arms stretch 98 feet. The entire sculpture is of reinforced concrete covered in thousands of soap stone mosaics. More magnificent to me than the sculpture were the views of Rio and surrounding areas.  We did see true believers on their knees praying.

From the religious to the sacred to the earthly, we headed for Samba City.  This area is where a complex of buildings in Gamboa.  The complex is used for Samba schools to prepare for carnival.  There are about 14 of the schools housed here where they prepare the floats, train the musicians and dancers, create the costumes. It takes the entire year and about 2 million dollars per school.  The judging takes place in a rather short avenue with bleachers of either side for judges and the audience.  The precision is exacting with a required 82 minutes (no more, no less or you are eliminated).  

This evening we had dinner at a local tapas bar.  It was not elegant or particularly good.  But, see pictures of the day at Flickr. 

Rio de Janeiro Day 3

Sugarloaf Mountain

We got an early start with a bus ride to take the cable car up to Sugarloaf mountain.  The Portuguese named this peak because it resembled their prepared sugar loaves.  Blocks of sugar were placed in conical molds made of clay to be transported on ships.  The form of the peak reminded them of the 'sugarloaf' shape.  There are two stages to the ride up.  One stop offers what I thought was just the best view.  Then we took a second cable car and Wow! The views from the peak are awe inspiring and breath taking.  Also, it was a nice cool breeze that offered relief from the 94* down below.  

From Sugarloaf we drove to Guanabara Bay to take a boat cruise around the bay.  I must mention it here so I never forget the Brazilian Butt we saw while waiting for the boat.  Honest to god it was so large that all 14 in our group simply burst into astonished guffawing at the sight.  Oh, if only we had the presence of mind to take a photo.  

We had lunch at the Churrascaria Palace, a Brazilian steak house.  My favorite cut was the short ribs which were perfectly flavored and tender.  All else was a bit tough and overcooked for me.  The afternoon was free and dinner was on our own.  We ate at the Pergola pool restaurant and were very disappointed.  However, we were tired and happy to eat in.  Pictures at Flickr

 

Rio de Janeiro Day 2

 

Me by the Copacabana legendary pool

If any one day is better than another in Rio, this day was better than yesterday. After a nice breakfast by the pool, I returned to lounge and swim a bit.  Wayne did not, but snapped this picture of me from our balcony.  The staff and service here are nonpareil (at least in my experience).  Everywhere one turns a towel is provided, a hand is offered, the room serviced twice a day, someone stops by the room with more coffee, water.  At the pool, the towel is also arranged on the chair and drinks are offered. Why should I have to arrange a towel?  The salt water pool is refreshing, the breeze cool and the company quiet and polite.  Around noon, I returned to the room to fetch Wayne.  From there we walked across the street to the Copacabana's beach restaurant for lunch.  THEN we walked to the surf.  Wow.  Just Wow. There are several soaker hoses laid in the sand to form a cool path from the street to the surf. We definitely walked that line as the sand burns one's feet.  I have never been in a surf that is so strong.  There is a singular wave of great size that only crashes about 15 feet from the tide line with a power to knock you over.  As the water recedes the pull is so strong as to drag one out with it.  And, dragged me butt first into it. Kids, adults, senior all are at the water's edge laughing, enjoying this phenomenon. 

Back at the hotel we checked out the spa and fitness room.  Wayne stayed (he's dedicated, man) to work out.  My excuse?  I've already showered.  Tonight, we met 6 of our fellow travelers at the welcome reception and dinner.  The other 6 have been delayed and will arrive sometime tomorrow.  Dinner was at Restaurant Hotel Cipriani where Northern Italian flavors in a Michelin starred restaurant are served.  We really like the group which is a mixture of singles, married from Florida, Australia and South Carolina,

  

Rio de Janeiro Day 1

                       

 

Copacabana Beach

We arrived in Rio bright and early this morning after a 10 hour flight.  There is only a 2 hour difference so jet lag is minimum.  We were met at the airport by a Tauck employee who was very congenial and gave us good tourist information on our 30 minute ride to the hotel: don't drink the water, don't flash your phone and jewelry around, don't flush the toilet paper.  He mentioned a nice Bosa Nova bar which we will try to find and enjoy.  Our hotel is the Copacabana Palace, a very luxurious place where we were escorted to our room by a hotel guest server. Check out the video on Flickr of the room.  It's larger than many people have for home. We are here a day prior to the tour beginning and took advantage of that to have a small rest. Rested, we strolled across the street to the beach where you can see above I have outlived my bikini days.  It is very hot and humid.

After we walked toward town to a local store for water, wine and sunblock. Upon returning to the Copacabana,  we had brunch at the hotel Pergola restaurant adjacent to the pool. We napped in the afternoon to catch up on missed sleep.  Then, after a walk up and down Atlantica Avenue, we returned to the hotel for dinner at the Pergola. It was a quiet recuperative night with wine on the balcony.  A few more pics are on flickr

A Little Side Trip to South America

 

Rainbow at Logan

We have an auspicious beginning to our South America trip of 2 weeks: a rainbow.  After a month of stress worrying about how to get a visa for Brazil, we were notified last week that Brazil has moved the deadline to April.  I think that all the tour groups, cruise ships, Brazilian hotels and airlines gave them heck because of cancellations.  We also would never have been able to go because as of today, our departure date, we still do not have a visa.  BUT we are now excited and will be landing tomorrow in Rio.  

Logan to JFK

Without humility I must say that flying 1st class is worth selling your first child for.  1.  There is the club area at the airports that is quiet, comfortable and offers free drinks and food.  The Admiral Club at Logan was like the best top notch hotel would be.  The JFK Admiral Club is not quite as elegant, but still nicer than the boarding gates.  

A Winter of Music & Art Boston

We had the most wonderful winter.  It was so wonderful that we got too busy to even keep this blog.  But not to forget our experiences, I will just give some notes.

On February 11, 2023 we heard Eli Ferguson and Rukus: Fly the Coop in the Calderwood Studio at WGBH.  They were so, so good, playing on period string instruments except for Emi who plays the flute. 

March 17-19 we celebrated Wayne's birthday at the Chatham Bar's Inn.  There was Irish music included with the prix fixe meal.  It was so minimal and repetitive that we left at the break.  

On March 26, 2023 we went to Jordan Hall to hear Boston Baroque Mozart's Jupiter Symphony.

April 1, 2023 Always a funny guy, David Sedaris throughly entertained us at the New Bedford Zeiterion.  Thank you, Adam for a great gift.

April 8, 2023 Mahler from the New Bedford Symphony at the Zeiterion. Really memorable and beautiful performance.  (P.S. I love Mahler)

May 13, 2023 Commonwealth Shakespeare with Martha and Oleg.

Wherein We Buy a Car

 

BMW 440i xDrive Coupe

We got lucky on Saturday.  For a few weeks we've been test driving BMWs and found one we liked, a 340 sedan.  However, these cars are manufactured in Germany.  US dealers must compete for a production time.  The earliest we could get the 340 was August. On a whim we went to Herb Chambers in Boston to look at other models.  The sales man said he didn't have the 340 sedan but he did have a 440 coupe that was brought in yesterday with 1200 miles.  SOLD!  This car has everything technically imaginable.  It drives like a dream, the radio sounds like a recording studio and the road noise is negligible.  As Wayne says, it's like driving a computer.  We pick it up next week.  

Sunday was our first concert this season at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Calderwood Hall. A little over a decade ago, Renzo Piano designed a new wing for the Gardner.  This was not without controversy due to the necessity of demolishing the carriage house.  The addition is a very modern contemporary design which also does not meld with the Gardner or the neighboring buildings.  However, the interior is a delight with a restaurant, a sitting room, tons of glass, an exhibition space and a unique concert hall. The acoustics in the hall are impeccable, and it's made for live acoustic performances. The space is essentially a stageless cube with the musicians performing in the middle of the floor and the audience seated on all four sides, both on the floor and on three levels of balconies that line the cube up to 3 balconies.  Each of the balconies has only a single row of seats. 

   

This afternoon's performance was by the Claremont Trio.Here you may listen to a bit of their music and read the biographies.    

A Little Romance

 

Ying Li, Pianist

We went with Alice to the Cape Symphony in Barnstable today.  She fed us a wonderful brunch first, and all we needed do was transport her.  What a deal!  The program focused on the Romantic Era, one of which I like a lot since I'm a romantic at heart.  I also like baroque, but that's for another concert.  I was surprised to learn Wagner was of the Romantic Era. When I consider the music it is perfectly clear.  But when I think of the man and his the Nazi connections, I get a totally different vibe.  

Ying Li, the pianist, was superb.  Amazingly, she played the entire Liszt piece without sheet music (or the now present iPad). Also, today Stuart Gunn, Principal Tuba who is retiring, was recognized for his 40-year service.  That's a lotta air, man. The Konzertstuck gave opportunity for him and the horn section to shine.  The Cape's music director, Jung-Ho Pak is a personable, smiling conductor who radiates enthusiasm and a desire to educate, share and promote music.  

Program

KONZERTSTÜCK (CONCERT PIECE) FOR FOUR HORNS AND ORCHESTRA
Robert Schumann

ACADEMIC FESTIVAL OVERTURE
Johannes Brahms

PIANO CONCERTO NO. 1
Franz Liszt

PRELUDE TO DIE MEISTERSINGER VON NÜRNBERG (THE MASTER SINGER FROM NUREMBERG)
Richard Wagner

 

A Winter in Boston: A Side Trip to NYC

 

At The Metropolitan Opera

DAY 1, Jan 6

Driving in from New Haven, we checked into the Garden Sonesta Hotel on East 64th St.  It's a great room with ample seating and a kitchenette.  The staff is gracious, happy and helpful.  Since we had been sitting in the car all day, we decided to walk to Lincoln Center, about 2 miles.  What we thought would be a green and easy stroll on an slow street through Central Park turned out to be a route on a fast busy street with tunnels (the dreaded Central Park tunnels that are in every murder tv series).  But we arrived without incident, took a quick look at the Met's Marc Chagall murals, then headed for dinner.  The Lincoln Restaurant is in Lincoln Center.  Our waitress was funny.  The food was outstanding (smoked short ribs with pearl faro).  The show this evening was Mozart's The Magic Flute.  And, it was magical.  The engineering for the set simply awed me.  It was a complexity of moving, turning structures, giant, giant puppets of flying birds, polar bears, serpent, and more.  The Queen of the night simply shimmered with giant wings of light also controlled by puppeteers. But her voice out shown all.   Five Stars!!!  We did take a taxi back. LOL

DAY 2, Jan 7

We had the Pirates of Penzance at 2pm in the Kaye Playhouse at Hunter College presented by the New York Gilbert and Sullivan Players.  The Playhouse was only a few blocks from our hotel.  We decided to walk there and find breakfast along the way.  Well, it was Saturday in NYC and every spot to eat had a line blocks long.  That was good news for restaurants, bad news for the LaGues.  Not having the patience of the Gen Y and Gen Z crowd out for brunch, we walked and walked.  We did finally find a quite decent patisserie where we scoffed down 4 croissants. The play was delightful as are all the G&S. Then we made yet another country bumpkin decision to order dinner in at the hotel.  Warning!  Do not order from Tony's Di Napoli's Family Style restaurant.  

DAY 3, Jan 8

This was my favorite day. We took a taxi to the Ganesvoort St. High Line entrance and walked the 1.1 miles down to the Whitney Museum of American Art.   The High Line is a raised rail line reinvented into a beautiful, wide, art and flora filled walk way.  Today we had an excellent brunch at Pastis.  We dined outside and were entertained by a very well-behaved Golden Retriever (of some sort) who sat in the booth like a gentleman. I had reserved ticket at the Whitney to see the Edward Hopper show.  He's been a favorite of mine and a big influence on my work since college.  This show was curated to represent Hopper's focus on NYC streets and interiors.  There were pieces I had not seen in person.  The crowd was small enough to see each piece without disturbance.  

That evening we made reservations at downtown at Fine and Rare, advertised as fine food, rare spirits and live entertainment.  We were looking for live entertainment.  Our choice was Cafe Carlyle where John Pizzarelli was playing.  However, they were closed on Sunday.  So, off we taxied to F&R where there are hundreds of spirits lining the walls.  The spirits menu is a small book.  Behind us were private (and viewable) lockers called "Bottle Keep". One can purchase a favorite bottle, enjoy it, tag and store it.  The wine was ridiculously overpriced.  The risotto was bland and the red snapper dry.  The music was so very loud that we could not talk.  Two different tables asked to be moved to a quieter spot after holding their ears and laughing.  It was an interesting experience not to be repeated.  

Photos of the trip.

A Winter in Boston, A Side Trip to the Big Apple: First Stop New Haven

Wayne admiring the Abbey painting of Richard III
Yale Museum of Art

We had a pack-filled three days and four nights this week end.  On our way to NYC Thursday, we stopped in New Haven for some excellent art engagement and also some great pizza.  Our hotel, The Graduate New Haven, practically abuts Yale University.  Our intention was to visit the Yale Museum for a look at one painting, Richard III by the Pre-Raphaelite artis Edward Austin Abbey.   We both love this painting with its strong diagonal lines, its bold use of red and white, and the narrative interpretation of Shakespeare's Richard III.  It also came to be that Hilton Als was lecturing across the street at the Center for British Art.  The lecture concluded with the third and final show in a series curated by Als, The Beautiful Ones by Njideka Akunhili Crosby. We looked at the show prior to the lecture.  I liked her work and was intrigued by her methods.  Als did not address the plastic aspects of the work nor the sources and inspirations.  Disappointingly, he talked extensively about his own history and a small bit about Crosby's history.  The evening ended with our go-to pizza joint and favorite pizza.

Peppe's White Clam Pizza

For a few pictures of the day, visit Google Photos

 

A Winter in Boston, Happy New Year 2023

Oysters, steak, twice baked potatoes, wine, scotch, fireworks, FaceTime with Oleg and Martha.  We actually stayed awake until 2023.  

Happy New Year, 2023

On Sunday the 1st we met Judy and Matt in Cambridge for lunch at The Little Donkey.  All of us then went to Sander's Theater to hear Boston Baroque perform a medley of music.  Two stood out for me: 1) Telemann's Concerto in Eminor for recorder and flute.  Aldo Abreu performed with outstanding dexterity.  One of the recorders was so tiny I couldn't see how his manly fingers could work it Vivaldi's Motet, O qua Coeli with soprano Amanda Forsythe. It was virtuosic.   

 

Sander's Theater above. Judy, Christy, Wayne in the Theater.

On Monday we returned to Cambridge for a visit to the Harvard Natural History Museum. We had never seen the Glass Flower holdings.  It was very interesting.   The Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants, better known as the “Glass Flowers." is a unique collectionmade by Leopold (1822-1895) and Rudolf Blaschka (1857-1939), a father and son team of Czech glass artists. Over fifty years, from 1886 through 1936, the Blaschkas produced 4,300 glass models that represent 780 plant species.

Wayne in the Ware Collection, Harvard Museums

Lunch was had at Grindel's Den

Which we walked to following in the horse steps of William Daws.  

We ended our New Year week end with some errands.  I needed to drop two paintings at the Copley Society for the Members' Winter Small Works Symphony 2023 show.  Then straight on to Landmark Center to return a vest to REI and buy a new palette knife.  We were planning to eat lunch in the new Town Market at Landmark Center.  However, parking evaded us, Wayne parked in a tow zone, and I took care of business.  

Paintings at the Copley Society for the Winter Members' Show, Symphony.

A Winter in Boston, John Pizzarelli

Gloucester Harbor from the Beauport Hotel

We aren't exactly in Boston, but rather in Gloucester as we continue our pursuit of a cultural winter.  The Beauport Hotel is a luxurious oceanfront hotel.  As you can see in the above photo,  the sunsets are fabulous.  It's a 15 minute drive to Rockport where the Shalin Lui Performance Center is.  There we saw John Pizzarelli.

Shalin Lui Performance Center

The Shalin Lui is a most unique center with a windowed stage backdrop looking overlooking Rockport's Sandy Bay.  John Pizzarelli is an American jazz guitarist and vocalist. He credits his father, Bucky Pizzarelli as his most important teacher, and referred to him frequently.  He had a pianist accompanying him; the sounds were easy and pleasant as was his chatter.  One funny story was about his recording of Beatles songs which his publicist referred to as Abby Road Kill.  

Before the concert, we had drinks and hors d'oeuvres at the Beauport.  The sunset was so gorgeous. We had thought to eat dinner afterward at Barbara Lynch's new restaurant in Gloucester.  However, it was far from the hotel and didn't seem to have parking.  Instead, we opted to return to the Beauport.  The dinner offering was not nearly up to the hors d'oeuvres.  Nor was breakfast the next morning.  Lesson learned.  

A Winter in Boston, Handel's Messiah

Jordan Hall, Boston, MA

We are so fortunate this winter to have friends, Martha and Oleg, who have offered the use of their Boston condo to us.  They will be sculling in Tampa where they live during the winter months.  The condo is a beautiful South Boston corner apartment with a covered balcony facing east toward the harbor and a second story deck facing west toward the city skyline.  It is luxurious.  

We began our winter festivities with a Boston Baroque concert at Jordan Hall.  Jordan Hall is the principal performance space of the New England conservatory. Boston Baroque is the oldest period instrument orchestra in North America. It was founded in 1973 by Martin Pearlman who remains conductor and harpsichordist. We were here tonight to enjoy Handel's Messiah.  Hallelujah! 

Martha and Oleg invited us to stay the night at their's.  While we were at the concert, they were having dinner with a friend.  They suggested we do a dry run to access the condo. We successfully did so and were settled in with television when they arrived home.  We're off to an excellent start.  
 

Ponta Delgada to Boston

 

This was a day to relax and see friends off home. The Solots were flying out today. So we spent time with them. Kathy and we then walked around the city to find a small lunch. My sleep has been chaotic and I welcomed a 2 hour nap before dinner.  Tonight, with just the 3 of us, we returned to Biai dos Anjos for dinner. The red wines here are particularly good and very reasonably priced. I’m ready to go tomorrow. The island is beautiful but 2 or 3 days is enough for us. We leave on 11/15 at 6 pm. Arrive in Boston at 8 pm with coats at the ready. 

Sunday Brunch

 

Louis’ and Jerome’s Home

Louis, John’s brother (pictured above with Wayne), and Jerome, Louis’ husband, invited us to brunch at their home in Caloura. They have 4 acres of land that is better described as 4 acres of paradise. The house sits above beautiful gardens that roll down to the ocean. Very high above this house, they are building a second home where they will move when it is completed. That home has a view of the ocean to the south. 

Two of the sisters and brother Able were there along with Alves wife and daughter. As can be expected with a large family, it was boisterous, funny, a bit sad, and loving. Oh, and there was the very nice Fred, resident dog. 

Back in Ponta Delgada Kathy, Wayne and I took a walk to find an ATM nd check out a Fado restaurant. The restaurant only has Fado on Wednesday.  Dinner a the hotel.  Pictures of paradise

And the Wheels on the Bus Go ‘Round and ‘Round

 

Us as Twins at the Twin Lakes, Sete Cicades

The 5 of us hired a tour for today. Valter, our guide, has relatives in New Bedford and Providence. No surprise there actually. A very informed man; he speaks 6 languages including Greek and Latin. We circled the coast line of the entire island. For the most part we were high atop the mountains with wonderful views of the calderas and coastal cities. We stopped for lunch at a small village restaurant where I ordered the catch of the day, mackerel. I can’t begin to describe the perfection of this grilled delight. Plus, vegetables fruit and salad on the plate made this a meal for at least 2. It was so abundant that we and Kathy had appetizers at the hotel bar for dinner. Please look at the Photos to appreciate this gorgeous island. 

Adeus João

 

Wayne in Ribeira Quente 

All 19 of us who are here to spread John’s ashes and celebrate him drove to the town in which he was born and spent his first 14 years. It was a small village sitting on the Atlantic much unchanged from when the Limas lived here. John’s sister Ligia told stories of their time here before immigrating to the USA. Brother Louis pointed out their home. The parents immigrated with all six children in order to escape the Facist Salazar. After the ashes were spread, we all went to a bar which was located where John’s father would distill booze. There we toasted John and heard reminisces from the family. Louis drove us back and stopped at Furnas. Furnas sits in a dormant volcanic crater. Although the Furnas volcano last erupted in 1630, you can feel, see and smell the geothermal activity all around you in the form of steaming fumaroles, thermal pools and natural mineral springs. The locals utilize the heat of the ground to cook the famous Cozido stew, and also use the mineral waters in several recipes for cheese, pastries, breads, meats and more. Upon our return to Ponta Delgado we had lunch with Kathy and the Solots at The House of Balcahau where I had a delicious Tower of Bacaulau.  Pictures of our day